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How to Raise a Doggy Superstar!
How to Raise a Doggy Superstar! Two words: Early Socialization. I know, I know. Puppies need manners training and crate training, potty training and chew training, alone time training and resource guarding prevention. Those things are important, no doubt. But when it comes to your pup’s long term behavioral health and wellness, none is as important as proper early socialization. Socialization, the process of exposing a puppy to all sorts of people, places, puppies, things, and experiences in a positive way, is the highest priority for raising a superstar. Socialization gives your puppy the best chance of growing up to be a confident well-adjusted dog. It greatly reduces the risk that as an adult dog, kids playing or garbage trucks rumbling along a street will send him cowering frantically in a corner, or turn him into a reactive barking mess. The best case for early socialization comes from dogs who didn’t get it. When I hear that Casey growls and barks at kids, I typically learn that she wasn’t around kids much or at all when she was a pup. When I hear that Juniper snarls and barks at visitors, I often learn that during puppyhood, hardly anyone came to the home, and he rarely met people outside the family. All too often I hear that Mattie barks and lunges at dogs when she’s on a leash, plays too roughly with other dogs, … and that she never went to puppy class or puppy playgroups. Sadly, most fear and aggression behavior problems stem from a lack of early socialization. Socialization should be top priority in raising your superstar because unlike the case with manners training, you’re racing against time. The early critical socialization window ends between 12 and 14 weeks of age! During that time, pups are most impressionable and socialization experiences are likely to make the biggest impact. Your job isn’t finished once your puppy hits 14 weeks though. Socialization should continue throughout puppyhood and adolescence, and for some dogs, into adulthood. Socialization doesn’t guarantee that a pup won’t develop fearful or aggressive behavior later. But it does provide him with a solid foundation of confidence and maximizes his chance of not developing those sorts of behavioral issues. Dogs, like humans and other animals, become more cautious and fearful as they age. It’s a survival mechanism that makes good sense. If Buster is four the first time he meets a toddler, how would Buster know if the toddler is safe, dangerous or irrelevant? Treating the child as a potential threat — running away or barking at it to go away — is the safest, most logical choice from Buster’s perspective. Pups who regularly encounter new people, places, pups and stuff develop resilience and the confidence to handle novel situations. If you want a puppy star who grows into a doggy superstar, socialize the heck out of him and make it fun! A Few Tips: Get him out into the world safely every single day. Pair socialization experiences with things your pup really likes or loves to create a positive association. Take treats on outings and feed him a few pieces whenever he meets a new person, sees or hears something new, or goes to a new place. Introduce him to new people every day, especially to kids of all ages; babies; toddlers; people in hats, hoodies and shades; elderly people; physically challenged people; people in uniform; people with facial hair; people in wheelchairs; people carrying packages, using walkers and pushing strollers. Enroll him in a positive training puppy class that is run off-leash and/or includes off-leash playtime. Take him to supervised puppy playgroups at least once a week, in addition to puppy class. Expose him to noisy places and things like construction sites, airports, train stations, garbage trucks, vacuums, hair dryers, other appliances, buses and garages. Take him to dog-friendly parks, beaches, trails, cafes, pet stores, groomers, vet clinics, and other stores. Invite friends and neighbors over to meet him. Never force him to interact with someone/something that really scares him. Instead, get him out of the situation and contact a positive trainer. Lisa Manolius, CTC, CPDT-KA Lisa has been training dogs professionally since 2007. An honors graduate of the renowned Academy for Dog Trainers, she owns and operates her own private training business, Oh Behave!, in San Francisco, CA. Lisa specializes in training puppies, adolescents, and fearful and anxious dogs, and uses only force-free reward-based methods. She lives with her husband, and beloved fur babies, Vinnie the dog, and Ted the cat. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Train Your Dog to Resist Temptation in Four Easy Steps!
Train Your Dog to Resist Temptation in Four Easy Steps! Dogs are like turkeys in one important way: they love to gobble. They gobble up stuff that they find on walks. They gobble up stuff that they thieve from the cupboard. And we all end up dropping stuff that our dogs consider imprudently gobble-worthy, too. Sometimes the things we drop are dangerous, like medication. Sometimes, we drop (and they gobble) something they have a criminal history with, like sunglasses, a remote control, dirty laundry…. You know what I’m talking about. In the face of dogs’ superior speed and imperviousness to unpalatability, it makes sense to train a dog to “leave it.” Imagine this: you’ll simply say “leave it!” when you accidentally drop something forbidden. Your dog, to the surprised oohs and aahs of your family and friends, will pause and look at you (often adoringly) instead of charging over to eat, steal, shake, bury, play keep-away, or otherwise act, well, like a dog. What a useful trick, and so deliciously easy to train over just a few days. Here’s how… Step One: Put a really good treat in a tightly closed fist and hold it out to your dog. He will likely chew, paw, and lick your hand – just ignore him. Stay as still as a statue until your dog backs off or looks away for just a single tiny split second. As soon as that happens, say “take it” and open your hand, allowing him to eat the food. Do this ten or twenty times, then move on. Step Two: It’s time to up the ante. Get ready to move fast – your dog will, and you can’t let him win. Ask your dog to “Leave it!”, and offer your dog a treat on an open, flat palm, about a foot from his nose. The instant he starts to move towards your hand, smoothly and quickly close your hand and lift it up and away. Your dog will see that heading towards the treat causes it to run away. Try again, and be ready to snatch it away again. After five or ten times, your dog will likely give you something new: a brief pause. (It’s as though they are saying: “this isn’t working. What else can I try?”) As soon as you see that pause, say “take it!”, and give him the treat. Repeat until your dog won’t go for the treat at all. Then, hold the treat out for three seconds before he is allowed to “take it.” Step Three: We’re starting to get closer to real life scenarios now. Cue “Leave It,” and then place the treat on the floor about a foot from the dog. Cover it briskly as soon as he starts to come towards it, and then try again. After a few attempts, he’ll likely go back to pausing. Reward this with a treat, now from your pocket rather than the goodie on the floor. When he’s done five in a row without going for the treat, leave it down for three seconds, and then five seconds. Step Four: Stand near your dog, and gently drop a treat. The same rules apply: be ready to cover the treat if your dog makes a break for it! Your dog is likely wise to the game now, though, and after a few thwarted attempts to zoom in he should be back to pausing politely. Reward the pause from your pocket (in fact, you’ll need to continue to reward this behavior frequently. This is work, and work earns a paycheque. If you stop paying, your dog will – quite reasonably – stop working.) Once your dog has paused politely five times in a row, try dropping a couple of treats. Then more interesting forbidden stuff, like leftovers. At this point, most dogs don’t need more set-ups. They are ready for the real world. Final note: If you get bogged down, take a positive dog class that includes Leave It on the curriculum. Practising all alone is no one’s strong suit and the repetition and coaching in class will be a godsend. Best of luck taming your grabby gobbler! Kristi Benson Kristi Benson is an honours graduate of the prestigious Academy for Dog Trainers, where she earned her Certificate in Training and Counseling (CTC). She lives and works in the Parkland Region of central Manitoba Canada, where she teaches dog obedience classes and helps dog owners in private consultations – both in-person and via video chat – for a full range of dog problems, from basic obedience to aggressive behaviour. Kristi is on staff at the Academy for Dog Trainers, helping to shape the next generation of canine professionals. Kristi’s dogs are rescue sled dogs, and for fun she runs them with a dog-powered scooter and on skis. Contact her through her website, and check out her blog, Facebook page, or Twitter for training tips, articles about dogs and training, and more. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Positive Dog Training
Positive Dog Training Everyone wants positive training, right? Why wouldn’t you? Negative training doesn’t sound like a good idea. Or “force-based training”? Or “pain-based training”? Or my favorite “outdated dominance-based theories.” And the list goes on and on. Dog owners today are being brain-washed by organizations like PETA, the ASPCA or the Humane Society of America that all dog training must be positive and anything else is outdated, not science-based and doesn’t work. And this horrible Cesar Millan guy, oh my god… Here is the problem. When well-intentioned people and organizations, who lack the most basic understanding of dog training, share their views, they are doing so from a perspective of ignorance. They are often uneducated on the facts and just go with their opinions and emotions. That may feel good but doesn’t help dogs and owners having a harmonious relationship. Within the background of this minefield, I want to share some facts, I believe every dog owner should understand. I will keep it as light as possible, although to illustrate my points, I must be a little bit “sciencey” … and I mean actual science. What Being Positive Means First, in dog training, the term “positive” is thrown around like there is no tomorrow and it makes sense to most people. When we say something is positive, we usually mean it’s good and we call something negative when we consider it bad. But how does an electrician view positive and negative? They are just different wires. You need both to get the light turned on. The negative wire is not the bad guy. It’s part of the equation. Relax! I am not going to compare dog training to electrical wiring. The point I want to illustrate is this: words have meaning based on context. In dog training, many terms come from a scientific model called Operand Conditioning aka The Quadrant. This model is used in human and canine behavioral work and was developed by a scientist by the name of Burrhus Frederic Skinner; usually referred to as B.F.Skinner. He used four words: positive, negative, reinforcement and punishment. The first two words are paired with the second two words, to describe cause-and-effect relationships. A cause-and-effect example would be: you make that big sale (cause) and get a bonus (effect). In his model, B.F. Skinner created the following groupings of these words. Positive Reinforcement Negative Reinforcement Positive Punishment Negative Punishment Here is the thing though, all of these are scientific terms, and none of them mean, what you may assume they mean, from every-day language. In this model “positive” refers to adding something while “negative” means subtracting something. These are operands, hence the name of the model: Operand Conditioning. These don’t mean good and bad. Reinforcement refers to making a behavior more likely to occur in the future. In our example, the bonus should be reinforcement for more big sales and the hard work to make them happen. Punishment refers to making a behavior less likely to occur in the future. If, for example, you were to become lazy at work and get fired (punishment), you will probably not be lazy in your next job, to avoid that from happening again. Transitioning this to dogs, here are a few examples to illustrate: You ask your dog to sit, he does it, you give him a treat. You are adding something (treat) to increase the likelihood with future command compliance (reinforcement) with “sit”. This is Positive Reinforcement. So far this was probably easy enough, but now it gets interesting. Next, we use all the other words and you will see, they don’t describe evil things either. They are all part of learning and they are all necessary. Let’s say you ask your dog to sit again and now he doesn’t. Are you still going to feed him the treat? Of course not, that would be silly. You may try again, but you are not rewarding him for not listening. So, what did you do by withholding the treat? You took the treat away (negative) to reduce the likelihood of non-compliance with “sit” in the future (punishment), so he can earn a cookie again. That is Negative Punishment. Was that mean? No. Was that cruel? No. Interesting what these words really mean in their context, isn’t it? Next one, let’s say your dog doesn’t like other dogs and you want him to look at you when another dog shows up instead of barking his head off. We could set up a training scenario, where we control the other dog (through another person) and every time your dog looks at you (reinforcement) we have that other dog leave the area (negative). In this example, removing the other dog is the reward for looking at you. Once your dog gets the idea that looking at you makes that other dog go away, he will look at you more readily and easily. That is Negative Reinforcement. Oh, your tortured and beaten dog. We are such monsters. Or maybe that wasn’t evil either. What do you think? One more. Let’s assume your dogs LOVES playing tug of war with you but he also likes squirrels. If he loves the game with you enough, you could produce the tug toy each time you see a squirrel in the environment and have a great play session. By producing the toy (positive) we are making squirrel chasing less likely to occur in the future (punishment). That is an example of Positive Punishment. Surprised? Probably, but I want to be fair. Slapping a prong collar on your dog and popping him whenever he sees a squirrel is also positive punishment. What most people consider a physical correction, is positive punishment. I hope these examples highlight that terms like negative and punishment mean something very different in dog training than you were made to believe by well-meaning ignoramuses. The most important thing to understand about positive training is this: You can’t stop behaviors with positive reinforcements. You can only make an alternative behavior more desirable for a dog, so he will choose it over what you want him to stop doing. If wanting something to stop is all you want, positive punishment is all there is. Dog Training Tools I want to add a few words on dog training tools as this is obviously a related topic. Tools like prong collars or e-collars get vilified by animal rights groups as barbaric and painful. Just like said before, this is ignorance. Obviously, you can hurt a dog with these tools, but that is not what they were designed for. There is one picture that has been floating around Facebook for years, with a dog having injuries all around his neck from a prong collar that got embedded. I assume it was on too tight for too long. That is of course horrible, but not common nor the norm—otherwise there would also be way more pictures like that and not just that same one. If we judge tools—or anything, really—by the most inappropriate use, by the most unskilled people, we won’t have anything left. It may be a teaspoon to you, but I see a perfect eyeball carving tool … no more teaspoons! Clearly, that can’t be the standard. If you get to observe a skilled trainer work a dog on a prong collar or an e-collar, you see how much the dog enjoys the training, doesn’t suffer, is not being hurt and learns beautifully. Obviously, not all dogs need to be trained with these tools, but for some they are the best way to train them. It is never about inflicting pain, it is always about safety (for dog and owner) and speed of learning. Please always judge tools only by appropriate use by skilled people, because we all need to keep teaspoons available to us. Judge training by how the dog looks like. Is he enjoying the training? Is he making progress? Does he like the trainer? The last one can, of course, take a few hours in the beginning but a skilled, patient trainer will make a dog come out of its shell. On the other hand, if the dog is obedient but looks depressed, he was put under too much pressure during training. You can find plenty of examples on YouTube showcasing quick results that killed the dog’s spirit. Stand against that, I do. But please don’t vilify effective tools in the right hands, used with skill and compassion. Picking a Dog Trainer When picking a trainer for your dog, interview them. Below are some marketing labels you will encounter with dog trainers and here are my thoughts on those. If a trainer calls themselves positive only (R+), they don’t understand the terminology of dog training. How likely will they be skilled in training your dog? Don’t get me wrong, there are some great trainers out there who market themselves as positive only, but they know their label is a marketing scheme and doesn’t describe their work based on dog training terminology. Ask questions. If a trainer calls themselves balanced, find out what that means to them. There are too many correction-centric trainers who have adopted that label, but also large number of good trainers label themselves that way. You must drill deeper to get a coherent picture. Again, we have many amazing trainers, calling themselves “balanced”, just understand what that means for their work, before you hire them. Generally, trainers who emphasize relationship building and/or a “positive first” approach are usually more enjoyable for you and your dog to work with and are some of the most skilled in the business. This includes many LIMA trainers, which stands for: Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive. NePoPo trainers is another label you will see: it stands for Negative–Positive–Positive and so is the label: Force-Free. But Force-Free is used by some very skilled e-collar trainers, as well as positive only trainers, so again, ask questions. Ralf Weber Ralf Weber is a certified dog trainer and behaviorist. A professional member of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP), an AKC evaluator for Puppy S.T.A.R., Canine Good Citizen and Community Canine certifications, author of the dog behavioral book: "If Your Dog Could Talk" and owner of the dog training company Happy Dog Training. Ralf works with clients in Southern California and can be contacted through his website at HappyDogTraining.info. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Why It's OK When Dog Training Goes Wrong
Why It's OK When Dog Training Goes Wrong It can be really frustrating when things go wrong during training. You’ve got yourself all excited to teach your dog a new skill, you can’t wait to give it a go but it’s just not working out. Your dog just doesn’t seem to be getting it or doesn’t seem want to play along. You may find yourself getting cross and thinking that your dog is just being stubborn. You may even feel like you’ve failed or that your dog has let you down. Yet every failure during dog training is an invaluable learning experience. If something isn’t working out, I know the dog I’m working with is telling me something isn’t right. Often working out what has gone wrong is more useful than several successful training sessions. Sometimes the answer is relatively simple. For example, if a dog is thirsty, needs to go to the toilet or is too hot you are unlikely to get much focus from your dog. However, at other times the answer is a little more complicated. First things first. If your dog is comfortable and ready to work check that your rewards match the effort you are asking for from your dog. If you are teaching something completely new and/or of higher difficulty for your dog then your rewards need to reflect this in order to keep your dog motivated. A bit of boring kibble just isn’t going to cut it! Rewards are in effect payment for work well done. The harder the work, the better your reward needs to be. Secondly, are you asking too much too soon? If your dog is struggling often the easiest way to solve the problem is to break the training down into smaller steps. So if your dog just won’t do a down? Reward them for any bending of the back or lowering of the body then try to gradually decrease the distance to the ground bit by bit. Want to teach your dog to stay but they keep trying to follow you? Then practice building up duration on the spot before you start to move away. Setting your dog up so they can succeed is the key to any good training session. It’s better to be successful at lots of small improvements than ask for too much and have it all fall apart. Another thing that is often misunderstood in training is what can be referred to as fidgeting about. This is when your dog suddenly decides they must scratch their ear, have a little sniff of the ground or simply wander off. It may appear as though the dog has just lost interest but these are key signs of emotional conflict. When a dog is experiencing conflicting emotions they will start fidgeting. Most often the dog is excited to work but has also become stressed by something. This could be something as simple as your dog picking up on your own tension which is making them feel under pressure. Alternatively, what you are asking for may be too difficult for the dog and they are getting confused as to what they are being asked to do. Often when training goes wrong is when we ask our dogs to do something we have already trained them to do but in a different environment. To us, it seems obvious that sit means sit wherever you are but to your dog, the whole picture appears very different. There are lots of different sounds and smells, everything looks different, you may be wearing different clothes and be carrying various items, there may be other dogs and people too. To your dog, the situation is so completely different that they become confused. Dogs just aren’t as good as humans at generalising; they can’t pick out the one common thread in the situation (i.e. the word sit). This means that you may need to go back some stages in your training whenever you are in a new environment. One of the most common reasons for a training session to fail is by increasing the difficulty too quickly particularly in terms of distractions. A common example of this is when teaching a recall outdoors. Many owners struggle with recalling their dog out in the park. Usually, because the recall is attempted when there are too many distractions instead of being practiced at quieter times first. It’s just too big of a step up in difficulty to go from recall at home to a recall from other people and dogs especially if you don't have an exciting reward to offer on your dog's return. A special toy that only comes out for recalls is a great way to keep up your dog’s enthusiasm to come back to you when there are lots of doggy playmates around. When other dogs and people are too close during a training session your dog’s level of distraction will quickly tell you so. For dogs that react towards other dogs and or people by lunging and barking, your dog is telling you that you need more space. You can’t learn when you are stressed out or over excited and neither can your dog. So, if your dog has no focus take this as useful indicator that you need some more distance. If you find your dog tends to bark, bite the lead and jump about whilst you are trying to train, this is an indication that your dog is getting frustrated. Training sessions that are short and sweet are preferable to a training session that goes on too long. A couple of minutes followed by a quick break is generally more effective than a lengthy session. If your dog is barking, then you need to reward faster and build up the duration between rewards slowly. Some dogs just get so excited for that tasty treat they struggle to contain themselves. You could also work on some self-control exercises such as a ‘stay’ and ‘leave it.’ If your dog is lead biting and jumping about, you may also need to make the training a little easier as you could be asking for something your dog doesn’t understand or is finding too difficult to perform. In summary, a training session that doesn’t go as planned can tell you a lot about your dog. Your dog may be stressed, frustrated or distracted. You may be asking for something that is too hard or where there are too many distractions. Your dog could be tired, need a break or simply not motivated by the reward that’s on offer. It’s important that as owners, we have realistic expectations of our dogs and don’t expect too much too soon. Dogs are sensitive to human emotions and getting frustrated or angry with your dog during training will only harm their progress and the owner-human bond. So instead of being disappointed when your training doesn’t go as planned, take it as an opportunity to learn something new about your dog. You’ll be amazed at what a difference a few small changes to your training can make. Tamsin Peachey Tamsin is a qualified animal behaviourist having obtained an MSc in Clinical Animal Behaviour from Lincoln University in 2013. In 2017 Tamsin started running Puppy School classes in Solihull, having received tutor training from renowned author, dog trainer and canine behaviourist Gwen Bailey. Prior to running Puppy School Solihull Tamsin spent over two years working at Dog’s Trust gaining valuable experience in caring for and training a wide variety of rescue dogs. In 2014 Tamsin and her husband adopted their own rescue dog, Milo, with whom Tamsin has worked successfully to reduce his reactivity towards other dogs. In addition to dog training, Tamsin enjoys writing articles and resources on the topic of dog behaviour for both professionals and dog owners. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Knowing Your Dog Training Priorities
Knowing Your Dog Training Priorities Last week I was shopping for clothes in a department store. As I browsed through the racks I heard a low growl then a high-pitched bark. Not expecting to hear these sounds in a clothing store, I scanned the area and saw a chihuahua staring at me from a small shopping cart. The woman pushing the cart was clearly embarrassed and hushed the small dog. In these situations, I typically just smile and walk away. However, this time I decided to share that I was a dog trainer and behavior consultant. As the woman and I made out introductions I found out that the growling chihuahua was only 4 months old. Then the question came, “Can you give me any tips for potty training?” My response surprised the woman when I stated “Although potty training is important, the growling is far more concerning.” I briefly explained that the growling is fear based but could eventually lead to biting. We only spoke for a few minutes but our conversation made me contemplate how people often misunderstand training priorities. It is not uncommon for people to make training a priority over the social-emotional health of their dogs. When I hold my puppy classes, the priority is introducing the puppies to novel objects, people and other puppies. Although we also practice basic behaviors like sit, down and come, the emphasis is on the socialization. If a shy or fearful puppy is not exposed to a variety of people, places and things when they are young, they may react by barking, growling or biting (this is a “fight” response to the fear). It won’t matter if they have a perfect sit or down, the fear can lead to unwanted behaviors. Another situation I commonly encounter is the dog that pulls on leash. In some cases, these dogs just don’t understand the “heeling” behavior you desire. In other situations, the dogs may be overly excited when on a walk. Alternately, dogs will sometimes pull because they are scared when they are on the walk (this is a “flight” response to the fear). Before we can help a scared dog go on a walk, we must first focus on decreasing the fear then teach the dog how to “heel”. For many of these dogs, we will discontinue the walks until the fear or anxiety is managed. “When a person is drowning it is not the time to teach him to swim” is one of my favorite quotes from Between Parent and Teenager, by Haim Ginott. If a person is drowning, we first remove them from the water and make sure they are safe. Then we would give them swim lessons, at their level or readiness (they may need to overcome the fear of water after nearly drowning). After overcoming the fear and taking the lessons, they would be able to swim. Dogs deserve the same respect. Shannon Coyner Shannon has been a pet lover all her life and a dog trainer for over 20 years. She has spent her life observing, caring for and training animals of all kinds. She has worked in the Bird Department at Marine World Africa USA, and worked as a handler and trainer for an African Serval Cat at Safari West, a private zoo in Santa Rosa, California. She has participated in behavior studies including observations of bald eagles and addax antelope through the San Francisco Zoo and Safari West. Her education includes a Biology Degree, specializing in Zoology from Sonoma State. She is a "Registered Veterinary Technician," a "Certified Professional Dog Trainer" (Knowledge Assessed), a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner, a member of the "Association of Pet Dog Trainers" and a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Shannon is currently serving as President for the Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians. Shannon's dog training philosophy revolves around force-free, positive reinforcement, however, her ultimate goal is for healthy happy relationship between pets and their people. Diet, exercise, environment and training all play a significant role in achieving this goal. Shannon is currently the owner of Ventura Pet Wellness and Dog Training Center in Ventura, CA where she works with anxious and fearful dogs privately as well as teaching agility classes (Venturapetwellness.com). Shannon has also started a training website called Truly Force Free Animal Training. :|zpendofcontent|:
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How to Transform Your Dog Training
How to Transform Your Dog Training Do you find yourself feeling frustrated while trying to train your dog? Does it just seem like they aren’t listening? Or are you confused as to why things you thought your dog knew sometimes seem to go out the window? Then take a look at these top tips to help transform your training today. Motivate your Dog First, think about what you are going to ‘pay’ your dog with when they get it right. Whenever teaching something new or moving to a new environment the reward must be of a high value to the dog to keep them interested in the work. Think about what is important to your dog. This could be fresh meat, tennis balls or a toy. Just using praise isn’t enough for new training situations. If your dog is getting too excited during training you may need to reduce the value of the reward slightly so they are more focused. Set Up for Success Set your dog up for easy wins by breaking training down into small achievable steps. For example, when teaching a recall for the first time don’t try and call your dog when they are playing with another dog in the park, begin at home calling your dog to you from short distances. You can then build up distance and distractions over time. Mark the Behaviour It can be difficult to reward your dog at exactly the right time, especially if you are working with your dog at a distance. Instead ‘mark’ the behaviour you want with an enthusiastic ‘yes’ or ‘good.’ This tells your dog when they’ve done exactly the right thing. You can then reward the behaviour afterward without causing confusion. A simple example of this is marking the moment your dog’s bottom hits the floor during a sit. If you use a verbal marker it doesn’t matter if your dog has got up again before you reward them. Speak, Signal then Reward Want your dog to respond effectively to verbal cues? To avoid confusion only add in verbal cues once you have a behaviour well established on a hand signal. Use the sequence of verbal cue then hand signal and perform lots of repetitions. Try fading out the hand signal and see if your dog still responds. If not repeat the sequence again. Don’t begin training by repeating verbal cues to your dog when they haven’t yet learned a behaviour. For example, repeatedly saying ‘sit’ whilst trying to teach a sit often leads to situations where the dog is still standing when the word is being used. The overuse of verbal cues in this way can cause confusion during training. Consider the Training Environment Is your dog losing focus? Could it be there are too many distractions in the environment? Dogs often don’t generalise well so often need to be re-taught behaviours when moving to a new place. Keep it Short Break training down into short sessions. 3 minutes, while you boil the kettle or the T.V. ads are on, is ideal. By keeping training short you can avoid your dog becoming tired or frustrated and keep your dog motivated. Recognise Stress and Frustration Sometimes a dog may struggle to focus because they are stressed about something in the environment or have become frustrated during training. Signs of stress include yawning, turning away and panting. Signs of frustration may include whining, barking and jumping up. If you see these signs during training end the session and have some time out. Test It Out Think your dog knows a particular command? Test it out! Can your dog perform the behaviour indoors, outdoors and at the local park? If your dog begins to struggle in different places or with more distractions more training may be required. Stuck for ideas or where to begin? Contact your local dog trainer or local dog training club for information on classes and events. There are lots of dog sports and activities to try from basic obedience to cani cross and agility. Whether you’re a beginner or more advanced trainer there are plenty of activities for you and your dog to choose from. Tamsin Peachey Tamsin is a qualified animal behaviourist having obtained an MSc in Clinical Animal Behaviour from Lincoln University in 2013. In 2017 Tamsin started running Puppy School classes in Solihull, having received tutor training from renowned author, dog trainer and canine behaviourist Gwen Bailey. Prior to running Puppy School Solihull Tamsin spent over two years working at Dog’s Trust gaining valuable experience in caring for and training a wide variety of rescue dogs. In 2014 Tamsin and her husband adopted their own rescue dog, Milo, with whom Tamsin has worked successfully to reduce his reactivity towards other dogs. In addition to dog training, Tamsin enjoys writing articles and resources on the topic of dog behaviour for both professionals and dog owners. :|zpendofcontent|:
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What Not to Do When Visiting Someone Who Has Dogs
What Not to Do When Visiting Someone Who Has Dogs Virtually every dog owner has had a bad experience with others coming into their home and reacting to their dog. Maybe it’s the hair, the attention the animal seeks, or the barking when someone knocks on the door. Maybe your dog is a working dog, not a pet, and others judge the way you treat them. The truth is that not everyone is a dog lover, and not everyone who has dogs raises them in the same way. Other than extreme situations of abuse or neglect, there are just some things you don’t do when you are visiting someone who has a dog. Punish Them Just like it’s never a good idea to punish someone else’s child, it’s never a good idea to punish someone else’s dog. However, there are always extenuating circumstances. For instance, if a dog is running into a street, it’s okay to call after it to keep it safe. Other than those types of dangerous situations, it’s important not to overstep your boundaries by punishing someone else’s dog. You might not know the rules, you might be stepping on the owner’s toes, or you may be confusing the dog. Unless safety is a concern, or you have been tasked with puppy sitting, you shouldn’t go into someone’s home and punish their animals. Feed Them Scraps Some dogs have sensitive tummies. Whereas some dogs can eat scraps all day, some dogs have one scrap and spend the next day with diarrhea. For that reason, it’s important not to sneak scraps to any dog you are visiting unless the dog’s owner tells you it’s okay. Not only that, but some scraps are not good for dogs. There are plenty of foods that can be fatal to dogs, so it’s best not to chance feeding them something that can hurt them. Judge Other Pet Owners Again, unless there are safety concerns, it’s best not to judge the way that someone raises their pup. Some people don’t let their animals on the couch, some do. Some people leave their dog outside when they have company over, some don’t. Some dogs beg, some don’t. You may have your preferences and standards for how a dog should act, but it’s not helpful to judge another dog owner for how they train their pet or how their pet acts. If you’re uncomfortable with it, don’t visit anymore. If your problems with the owner has to do with the dog’s well-being, it’s important to contact the appropriate authorities (1). Otherwise, it’s none of your business if they let their dog dig in the backyard. Complain It’s rude to go to someone else’s house and complain about anything, so you shouldn’t complain about their dogs, either. Honestly, many dog people think of their pets as family. For some people who don’t like dogs or other animals, it’s hard to understand that people may be offended by their view on their fuzzy family member. It’s okay not to like dogs, but it’s not okay to go to someone else’s house and complain about them. Dogs can be forward, loving, dirty, and covered in hair. They aren’t always quiet or the most polite, but they live in the house — you don’t. If you have a fear of dogs or a concern about them, discuss the problem politely with the owner and chances are they will respect that and keep the dog contained. Assume the Dog is Nice or Mean It’s just as unhelpful to assume a dog is nice as it is to assume that it is mean. Many stereotypes about dog breeds can cause a fear of a breed, as can bad past experiences with aggressive dogs, but you shouldn’t assume a dog is mean because of that. If you’re concerned, just ask the owner if the dog is nice. On the same note, some dogs come with a history you may not understand. For that reason, some dogs may be untrusting, nervous, or aggressive towards new people and experiences. Don’t approach every dog like it is nice. Instead, be respectful of the dog’s space and ask the owner about its temperament. Be sure to be especially mindful of children who may not understand these rules. Children may climb on a dog, put their face in the dog’s face, or invade their personal space which can cause any dog to have a negative reaction to them. These boundaries are extremely important. What You Should Do Sometimes it’s a lot more helpful to understand what you should do when visiting someone with dogs instead of only knowing what you shouldn’t do. It’s not just about being a nice guest, it’s also about making sure your visit isn’t miserable because of their pets. Ask questions: You should always ask a pet owner before making decisions for their pets. “Can I feed him this scrap?” “Can I throw his frisbee?” or “Can they come on the couch?” are all better than doing without asking. Not only that, but “Can I pet him?” “Why do you keep him outside?” or “Is he good with kids?” are all great questions to get to know the animal, alleviate any judgments, or feel safer about the dog being around. Be open: If dogs make you nervous, if you’re allergic (2), or if you just don’t like them, don’t be afraid to be open about those issues with the dog’s owner. If you don’t, they will have no way of knowing that they should keep the animal away from you. It’s okay to be honest about these things as long as you do so respectfully. Think before you speak: Before mentioning how much hair is on the couch, think about how that comment will come across. You don’t want to seem rude, so it’s always best to think before you speak to be sure you’re not being rude about the furry members of the household. Be prepared: If you know you’re going somewhere with dogs, just be prepared for your visit. Bring a lint roller if you’re concerned about hair, share any concerns with the host, or, if you love dogs, be prepared that the dog may not love people as much as you love them. At the end of the day, it’s important to respect the inhabitants of the home you are visiting — even the animal inhabitants. They live there and you don’t, so it’s important to realize that they have a place in that house. Some people view their dog as family members, and other people may view their dogs as working animals that don’t have the same comforts as people. Either way, as long as a dog isn’t being abused or neglected, it’s important not to judge how they are raised. Instead, respect the rules of the house, ask questions, be open, think before you speak, and be prepared for your visit. References: (1) http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/abuse_neglect/tips/cruelty_action.html (2) https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-with-Pet-Allergies-when-Visiting-Someone-with-a-Pet Chelsy Ranard Chelsy is a writer from Montana who is now living in beautiful Boise, Idaho. She graduated with her journalism degree in 2012 from the University of Montana. She is passionate about animal rights, bad television, and white wine. She is a volunteer at Simply Cats in Boise. :|zpendofcontent|:
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How to Use "Playtime" as a Reward in Dog Training
How to Use "Playtime" as a Reward in Dog Training Many people understand the advantages of using food as a reward in training dogs, but play is also a very powerful reward. Studies have found that, for dogs, social interactions with familiar humans are highly rewarding and that dogs whose owners play with them have been found to score higher in obedience tests than those whose owners do not play with them (Bradshaw, Pullen, & Rooney, 2015). To get the most out of play, keep everything positive. The benefits of play are reduced if the dog receives a verbal correction from the owner and dogs who have been trained with punishment-based methods are much less interactive during play than dogs who are trained with rewards (Bradshaw, Pullen, & Rooney, 2015). Initiating play with many dogs is easy. Studies on play between dogs and humans showed that when humans run toward or away from a dog, the human was effective at initiating play with their dog but when humans tapped the floor in a common method of attempting to initiate play, the dogs showed a much lower rate of responding playfully to the human behavior (Rooney, Bradshaw, & Robinson, 2001). A good game to play with a dog is tug toy. For many years this was not recommended but is actually a great game to teach rules of play, to build confidence in the dog, to reduce anxiety and as a great reward for other less engaging exercises. Teaching “tug-of-war” correctly is important and consists of several steps. Tug toy should be taught and played with rules in place, much like human games are. The rules should be trained and include that the dog must relinquish the item when asked; that there is a special tug toy for this game and that the game is initiated on cue (and the dog must not grab before the cue to start is given; the game should be interrupted by other exercises like obedience and a game restart as the reward; and that the dog can never place his teeth on human skin. (San Francisco SPCA, 2016). Dr. Ian Dunbar notes that if the dog bends a single rule, the owner simply says "Finish" and walks off. The dog learns that any rule-bend always abruptly terminates an otherwise fun game. He further notes that tug-of-war is a great way to practice keeping control over your dog when they are excited. It also can teach dogs to relinquish items willingly, knowing they will get them back and can reduce the chance of developing resource guarding. (Dunbar) The other benefit to playing games with your dog is that studies have shown a correlation between lowered rates of separation-related behavior such as vocalizing in the absence of the owner or staying by the door the owner left by and playing games with physical contact between dogs and owners and playing games with physical contact between dogs and owners (Rooney & Bradshaw, 2003). Play is rewarding because it is fun for the participants. In studies of rats, neurobiologist JaakPanksepp discovered that an increase in opiates facilitates playfulness and opiates may enhance the pleasure and rewards associated with playing. Play is a cooperative pastime and MRIs (magnetic resonance imaging) on humans show that the brain’s pleasure centers are activated when people cooperate with one another (Bekoff, 2007). Studies at Colorado State University revealed that oxytocin levels in women increased by 58 percent when women played with their dog (Hare & Woods, 2013). Oxytocin is an important hormone for women promoting mother-child bonding amongst other functions and has been referred to as the “cuddle” hormone. Jane Bowers, B.A., CABC, CPDT-KA Jane Bowers has been training dogs for over two decades. She teaches people to train their dogs in group and private training courses and has a keen interest in assisting dogs with behavioral issues. Her company is Dogs of Distinction Canine Training Inc. Jane has a monthly newspaper column on dog related topics and is a former host of a live call in TV show on animals. She is a strong advocate for force free and humane training methods for all animals. Jane has a degree in psychology and is certified as a dog trainer through the Certification Council of Professional Pet Dog Trainers and as a behaviour consultant through the International Association of Behavior Consultants and through the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals. These organizations require a minimum number of continuing education units be obtained to retain certification. She is also a professional member of "The Pet Professional Guild," an organization committed to force-free training of animals and the "Association of Professional Dog Trainers," a professional organization of individual trainers who are committed to being better trainers through education. Jane is the content creator of the online course "Assessing and Interpreting Dog Behaviour," which is a course for law enforcement personnel who meet unfamiliar dogs in the course of their duties. She is the author of "Perfect Puppy Parenting," a guide to raising a happy, confident, well-behaved dog. Jane spent 17 years working for Customs Border Services and in joint teams with US Homeland Security and the RCMP. She spent a further 8 years working as an Animal Control Officer and Bylaw Enforcement Officer. Jane lives on a small farm with dogs, sheep, donkeys, and chickens. The dogs each came from situations that prevented them from living in their original homes. The dogs range in size and age and with the dog training and behavioral work, whether it's participating in the development of an online training course, working with a client's dog or tracking a lost pet or animal. :|zpendofcontent|:
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5 Popular Dog Training Methods That Actually Work
5 Popular Dog Training Methods That Actually Work From all the popular dog training methods, it’s difficult to find out which one is best suited to your dog’s personality. Some popular training methods manipulate dog’s psyche smartly and ease the job of the owner. There is a great deal of disagreement among various dog owners regarding the best training techniques available out there that can completely satisfy the owners. The top five favorite dog training methods out there are as follows: 1. Positive Reinforcement Positive reinforcement is the top most popular training method. It’s a modern training approach that was introduced by Dawn Sylvia-Stasiewicz, who was the trainer of Obama’s dog. The underlying philosophy of positive reinforcement is that dogs will repeat the behavior that’s rewarded, and avoid the practices that go unrewarded. With a toddler’s mind, your pooch loves to be the apple of your eye, so he immediately picks up the actions you praise and reward. Instead of physical punishment, the reward is withheld to make the dog realize his mistake. 2. Scientific Training Scientific training includes all the training tricks and techniques that are being developed based on authentic research. The research are based on understanding the dog’s nature, behavior conditioning ability, and effects of rewards and punishment on dog’s psychology. The primary scientific training method is operant conditioning that includes positive reinforcement. When the desired behavior is meant to be promoted, rewards are given. When an unwanted behavior needs to be discouraged, rewards are withheld, and the pooch is ignored. You can use the operant conditioning to distract the dog from negative behavior and shift his attention towards a rewarding behavior. With repetition, the pooch will stop repeating the old behavior. 3. Clicker Training Clicker training is based on the models of operant conditioning and positive reinforcement. Clicker is a quick, loud sound of a whistle, clicker, etc. that’s used to signal the dog that the desired behavior is accomplished. It is mostly grouped with positive reinforcement, and the clicker is a quick signal to the dog that the desired behavior is achieved. There can be delays in rewarding the desired behavior in positive reinforcement. The clicker is an immediate signal for the furball to understand which behavior is being rewarded. Clickers are also used for teaching new tricks and behaviors to dogs and young pups. The dog is conditioned by the sound of the clicker that a reward is coming. Clicker training is not used to indicate punishments. 4. Mirror Training Mirror training, also known as ‘model-rival training,’ is based on the theory that dogs learn through observation. We should understand that dogs follow our action more than words as a child does. If the dog owner or trainer has a child who can perform some good behaviors and get rewarded, and act out few bad behaviors and get reprimanded; the dog will learn via observation the correct responses. In another way, the child can be asked to compete with the dog to perform the desired behavior and get rewarded. It will create an urge in the dog to pick up the task quickly and achieve it whenever he is commanded. The dog trainer himself can act as model in terms of his behavior and attitude towards the dog. The owner will have to practice what he preaches. 5. Electronic Training Electronic training method is used effectively by professional dog trainers in which a mild shock is given to dogs for not following the command. It is used to train the dog from a distance when the dog is off-leash. Shock collars and citronella sprays are used for invisible fence training of the dog. Use the best dog shock collars to provide them mild shocks and hurt them the least in case of performing an unwanted action. It will prevent the dogs from performing unwanted actions. But, to avoid putting the dog under stress, you should hire a professional dog trainer. It’s an effective technique for dominating or confident dogs. Fiona Appleton Fiona Appleton is a Labrador owner. She is the manager of https://ultimatehomelife.com/ that has been developed to help people solve the troubles of pet ownership. She is an active advocate of animal protection campaigns. She wants people to understand that dog-behavior is reflective of our behavior. :|zpendofcontent|:
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The Art of Dog Training: A Calm State of Mind
The Art of Dog Training: A Calm State of Mind Good dog training should ultimately give you the skills you need so that you can absolutely influence the decisions of your dog upon a request or command, and your training should result in your dog being able to accept and execute those requests. However, great dog training is when you don’t need to use those commands to be able to live life together. I’m the youngest of five children and never had my own anything. It was hand-me-down everything until I got my first dog for my twelfth birthday. All I wanted to do was learn how to train my new girl, my very own Australian cattle dog. I begged my mom to let me take Kizzie to obedience classes. She finally gave in, and off I went. My dog bit the instructor on day one. Not a very auspicious beginning for this young, aspiring dog trainer. I was mortified; plus, the lady who was going to teach me everything I desperately wanted to know just got bit right in front of me. I was more determined than ever to figure this all out! I learned heel/sit/down/stay/come with the best of them and won the top award in that novice class. And yet, even after all that, I still had a dog that had some strange, neurotic behaviors back at home. She would obsessively run the fence line or jump up and bounce against our windows when she was excited. I couldn’t treat it, yell it, command it, ignore it, or startle it out of her. Kizzie just wouldn’t stop, no matter what techniques I tried or classes I attended. Kizzie even ended up blind in one eye because I couldn’t get her to come when she took off after my horse and was kicked in the face. All those commands and blue ribbons didn’t work when real life distractions kicked in. They also didn’t take into account her strong cattle dog prey drive. But at that time, I had no insight into those things, which certainly weren’t prevalent ideas in the teachings I had access to. I knew something was missing, but it took years before I could put the pieces together. And then came Izzie, my very first labradoodle. She came into my life and helped me understand the missing links I didn’t know. My Izzie, the dog who stole my heart, was such a great communicator with other dogs and became the catalyst for my examination and understanding of dogs on a different level. What I’ve discovered on this journey of learning how to “speak dog” is that the art of dog training is knowing when you’ve done just enough, not enough, or more than enough. If the perfect down/stay or militant-style compliance is your ultimate goal, then we have different goals. And if you’ve done all you know how to do—all the commands, praise, clickers, or treats—and your dog is still not where you want her to be on some issues, then you’ve discovered this truth that has become my driving, burning conviction that compels me in my relationships with dogs: You can’t command calm, and you can’t compel acceptance! If we are commanding our dog every millisecond of the day, our dogs aren’t thinking, growing, maturing, or deciding anything. You should be able to be with your dog, on or off a leash, out in society without compelling him into a command. You should not have to put a dog into a sit/down/stay position when a person approaches, just because he will jump on the person otherwise. I want my dog to be able to handle the excitement of an approaching person and choose to be polite and respectful. I’ll even give my dog the option of choosing what makes him most comfortable in that situation, whether sitting, standing, lying down, or moving around a bit. I let him be aware of his world and aware of me. He is not sitting, glued onto the concrete with eyes glued to mine. He is learning how to relax and choose calm. At Aly’s Puppy Boot Camp (APBC), we expose our pups and dogs to other people of all ages, a variety of animals (dogs, cats, horses, goats, bunnies, chickens), and different sight sensations, smell sensations, texture sensations, noises, etc. Since life is often crazy, busy, noisy, smelly, and full of surprises, it is important that your pooch has the ability to maintain composure in the face of stimuli of all kinds. How your pup or dog is exposed to different stimuli is critical; the key—they must be calmly exposed! Once a dog can learn to think, make good choices, and handle all that life has to offer in a calm, safe, sane, and civilized way, then he is actually in the state of JUST BE. And truly, I believe that the greatest thing you can teach a dog is the art of JUST BE. Four Rules of JUST BE I have four general principles about how dogs should be acting and the choices they should be making when hanging out around me, no matter what we are doing together. I want my dog to relax and know that as long as he doesn’t break my four rules, it’s all good and he has some leeway about what he can and can’t do. These principles guide me in every facet of my working with a dog. The following should never happen: Dog, don’t make me spill my scalding hot coffee, not even one drop. Dog, don’t do anything to irritate me. Dog, don’t do anything to irritate anyone or anything around me. Dog, don’t do anything to piss me off. If a dog breaks one of these four rules of JUST BE, I shut down the silliness, instantly and effectively. To shut down the silliness (meaning anything a dog is choosing, other than what I’m asking for), it is imperative that you can hold your leash and quickly and firmly move your dog in a counter-clockwise motion back around to your side, then put him into a sit. As you are beginning to move your dog around in that “stirring a cauldron” motion, you take a step back simultaneously to aid in your arms momentum to get your dog around and back to your side as quickly as possible. Then immediately release the pressure of the leash the millisecond their butt hits the ground. Now, just breathe. Release ALL pressure and tension on the leash. Don’t do anything. Wait. Let your dog decide if he is done choosing silliness. If he chooses to break a rule again, no problem, you just efficiently and quickly move that dog around to your side, get a sit, and release the pressure. Timing counts on this. How many times will a dog test you on whether or not you will shut down the silliness? It varies from dog to dog. Stick with this, and I promise, before very long your dog will decide that learning how to JUST BE is way more easy and gratifying than being silly. That’s it, gang. It really is. Yes, sits are nice, heels are fabulous, long-distance downs are exceptional, tricks are fun, tasks are helpful; but the ability to JUST BE—well, it’s priceless. Alyson Rodges Alyson Rodges is a dog trainer specializing in puppies and all things DOODLE. She loves people as much as their pooches and teaches the necessary skills for them both to enjoy a balanced life with each other. Aly’s approach is rooted in relationship, not commands alone. Aly trains multiple dogs at once in her own home, complete with teenagers, a bit of chaos, and a lot of real life. Aly’s Puppy Boot Camp is located on the gorgeous central coast of California near Pismo Beach. You can find out about Aly at www.alysonrodges.com or email her at info@alysonrodges.com :|zpendofcontent|:
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How to Toilet Train Your Puppy
How to Toilet Train Your Puppy Teaching your puppy to toilet in the right spot can be one of the most frustrating experiences you’ll ever go through with your dog. So much so some owners go on a quest to find the ‘missing piece’ of the toilet training puzzle and shell out lots of money in return for it. After all, in their mind, the stress of being up close and personal with their pup’s excrement and constantly cleaning the carpet is easily worth the $49 ‘magic solution to toilet training all dogs. Once they get their hands on this advice, it always turns out to be nothing different to the information they have already heard but lengthened in laborious detail to justify the price. Toilet training your puppy is a simple process but it takes time, the ability to read your dog’s cues and careful management of both the home and your expectations. No tricks just hard work. Teaching Once your puppy comes into your home it will have no idea where they should toilet. The way to help them learn is to show them where to go. To do this, lead them to the designated spot at times they typically need to toilet for example every 30 minutes or so, ten minutes after eating/drinking and as soon as they wake up. If they toilet at the right spot praise them by saying “good boy/girl” and give them a treat. If they look like they are about to go in the wrong place you can gently pick them up (providing you manage to do this in time) and put them in the right spot. If you do not get there in time do not make a big deal about it as the dog may then relate your stressful state to not wanting to be near you. Rather clean it up (with a spray that eliminates the odor) without a fuss and understand it’s going to take some time. Reading Signs Your dog won’t toilet predictably so be aware of their subtle language to show they are going to toilet. This could include more sniffing than usual, circling, a squat and walking towards an area. If you see any of these signs, react quickly by leading them to the designated spot. Manage the Environment Ensure you close doors, pick up all rugs and put down training pads to increase your dog’s chances of getting it right. They will toilet on the mats by sheer fluke but over time they will learn to associate their actions of toileting on a pad with receiving a tasty morsel. Once they learn to toilet on the pads you can slowly reduce the amount of pads in the home whilst simultaneously teaching them to go outside. Once they are going of their own accord outside you can completely remove the last training pad. To Crate or Not to Crate? A dog is less likely to toilet if they are in a crate. This works for many owners as they can manage the environment if they have to go out for a short while and at nighttime. However, some dogs really reject crates and getting them used to it can be more bother than it is worth. It is best to weigh up your individual situation and figure out what works for you and your puppy. Understand Your Dog’s Needs to Manage Your Expectations All dogs have the same needs but what they need in each moment varies with each dog depending on the environment/time of day and their physiology. For example, if you are teaching a French bulldog or whippet puppy to toilet outside on a cold night with their thin coat then expect them to resist. In these moments, either put a coat on them or do not force the issue - rather let them toilet on a training mat. On a sunny day, you can hang outside with them for longer periods to get them into desired habits of behaviour. To summarise, be patient with your puppy and teach them to toilet in a calm, consistent approach. Manage the environment by closing doors, picking up rugs and using training mats. Learn to read their signals and react in time. Understand their needs and don’t resort to paying out for a magic formula on the Internet – it doesn’t exist! Nigel Reed Nigel Reed is an Amazon best selling author and dog behaviourist with 15 years experience. He lives in London, England with his wife Stephanie and his daughter Amalie. His goal is to help 100 000 dogs in his lifetime which he plans to do this through online courses, talks, his book The Dog Guardian and online videos which he receives 10's of thousands of views each month. He is also very keen to travel the U.S to help owners better understand their dogs. For more information on how to ensure your dog is happy and well behaved buy my book from Amazon: The Dog Guardian: Your Guide to a Happy, Well-Behaved Dog, Facebook | Instagram | Website :|zpendofcontent|:
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Why Never to Leave Your Dog Unattended in Public Places
Why Never to Leave Your Dog Unattended in Public Places How many times have you passed a supermarket or shop, to see dogs left tethered and unattended outside? Personally, I have lost count and time permitting, I try always to remain with these dogs until their owner returns. I have been called neurotic and scaremongering, when I point out the dangers to unconcerned owners, while thankful owners have assured me that they will think twice before leaving their dogs again! It is estimated that five dogs go missing every day in the UK, but the true amount may be even higher since these are only the cases which have been reported. There are numerous dangers to consider when leaving your dog unattended and below are some ‘common sense’ reasons for not doing so. Isolation in a public place can be extremely stressful for your dog. Trolleys rattling past, unwanted attention from admiring strangers and screaming children, can be enough to ignite barking from the mildest mannered dog. Theft So-called ‘designer dogs’ are a prime target for the opportunist thief and can reap handsome monetary rewards. Weather We all know the risks of leaving a dog in a hot car, but extreme heat in any situation can cause your dog to dehydrate and the consequences can be lethal. Likewise, severe rain and cold can be extremely uncomfortable for your pet. Another reason to leave them at home on your weekly shop. Fear Frightened dogs can be seriously hurt if their lead becomes tangled and well-meaning strangers offering help, can be bitten. Escape A stressed dog is quite capable of slipping a lead or chewing themselves free. A dog on the loose is not going to know his highway code and could get killed or suffer a serious injury on the road. Dog Attacks A tethered dog is defenseless against an aggressive dog, especially if the other dog is off the lead. Feeding your dog chocolate, or tormenting him and unruly children who think that it is fun to unleash your dog and watch him run away. Leash Hazards An outstretched lead on an unsupervised dog can become a hazard itself, especially for young children or people who are blind or partially sighted. Fearful People Believe it or not, some people are actually afraid of dogs and one blocking an entrance can force them to wait until your return, before they dare pass! While dogs will undoubtedly enjoy a walk to the supermarket, they are unaware of the risks and look to their owners for safety. It is highly unlikely that legislation will ever allow non-service dogs inside public places such as supermarkets or eateries, so we must take precautions to protect them. Of course, we want to include our dogs in daily life, but not at the expense of their safety. It may have been a safe practice to leave your dog’s years ago, but modern-day risks could see you losing your dog forever. Social media is awash with stories of lost pets. Some owners stating that they were gone for just minutes, but when they returned their dogs had gone and were in disbelief that someone could steal their beloved pet. Combining your errands with exercising your dog may seem convenient, but it takes but seconds for a dog to lost or stolen. Every minute your dog spends unattended increases the dangers and the heartbreak of losing your dog can be eternal. Nina Cole My name is Nina Cole and I am the founder of Nina’s Nannies for Pets, which I formed in 1998, following my recovery from a brain hemorrhage which occurred five months after my husband was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis. I have always been passionate about animals and their welfare and my childhood was spent caring for a menagerie of pets including rabbits, hamsters, rats, guinea pigs, cats and dogs. Following my husband’s MS diagnoses and my own recovery from brain surgery, I decided to realise my dream of working with animals. Pet sitting in the late nineties, was largely unheard of in the UK. but I wanted to offer a more personal service and offer an alternative to kennels and catteries, which allowed pets to stay within the comfort of their own home while their owners were away. Following much research, I contacted our local newspaper, who helped with our launch, distributed copious amounts of flyers, visited numerous veterinary establishments, training centers and pet shops and within six months of trading, my husband left University where he was studying to be a microbiologist, in order that we could meet the demand of our ever- increasing workload and our partnership was formed. I am now an established author writing for various magazines and often appear in the media regarding both my business and animals in the news. I am also a regular contributor on BBC radio where I am called upon to comment on animal welfare issues. :|zpendofcontent|:
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