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Traveling With Your German Shepherd
TRAVELING WITH YOUR GERMAN SHEPHERD BY RALF WEBER Traveling with your German Shepherd is a wonderful experience. Most dog owners would love to bring their dogs everywhere, but we usually can't, so when we get a chance to take our buddy on a road trip, it's special. This article will cover some important considerations when traveling with your German Shepherd. Essentials Bring enough water and food on your trip. German Shepherds must have consistent access to water, especially as it gets warmer. Your buddy will want to drink more than in the winter months. Several products on the market make that easy. Water bottles with attached drinking bowls are available in outdoor stores and online. It makes it easier to give your German Shepherd a quick sip here and there, without having to set up a water bowl each time. These work great wherever you go, let it be hiking, on the beach, or in the car. You can have up to 16 fluid ounces available for easy access while keeping the rest of your water in your car or backpack.In terms of food, kibble is easiest to manage while on the road. If you're feeding raw, an alternative during a trip can be freeze-dried raw food, which is available commercially. However, if you're considering using alternative food during your trip, make sure to have tested that food at home way ahead of time so you know your dog likes it and it doesn't give them the runs. First Aid Prepare and bring a good first aid kit for your dog and yourself. Things can happen when you travel and it's good to be prepared. As German Shepherds have long fur, make sure the bandages you bring will stick to your dog's body. Here are some other things that are important to have in your first aid kit: saline solution to wash wounds and eyes, vetericyn wound spray to disinfect injuries, paw cream, a tick removal tool, two or three tourniquets, Benadryl as first aid for snake bites and some pill pockets to feed them to your German Shepherd, noni bio bandage to keep wounds clean, 70% rubbing alcohol in case you need to bring down a fever. We also recommend taking a good first aid course for dogs to learn how to use all equipment correctly. In the Car Lots of things can happen in cars, dogs can get excited about things they see and pee a little or they could get carsick. It is a good idea to invest in a great back seat dog cover or cargo cover for the space your dog is riding in. 4Knines has a whole range of high-quality products and it is the only dog car seat cover brand we use. They protect your car from dirty paws, nail scratches and provide extra comfort and safety for your pet. Air Travel Please avoid traveling with your German Shepherd on an airplane unless it is unavoidable. The pressure differential and entire stress of the experience is not going to be a good experience for your dog. I personally would never put my German Shepherd in the cargo space on an airplane; too many dogs have died this way. This is somewhat different with a service dog traveling with you in the cabin, but it is still very stressful regardless. Other Considerations Think about what you do with your dog every day and what you need to do it. All those things should be in your German Shepherd's travel bag. You should be brushing your buddy every day and FURminators are the best brushes for the thick undercoat of your dog. Canine cleaning wipes are a good thing to bring, you don't know what your German Shepherd gets into on the road. You may have to do a little cleaning session before he comes back into the car. Also pack an additional collar, additional leash, maybe a long line, and possibly a tie-out if you're going to a camping ground. Don't forget your doggie’s vitamin supplements and possibly medications he needs every day. Make sure you have current licensing, vaccination, and health records including negative fecal test results before you go on your trip. Many hotels and boarding places require that kind of paperwork to let your German Shepherd come in. Also, make sure there aren't any breed restrictions excluding German Shepherds at any of the stops during your trip. We German Shepherd lovers cannot imagine why someone wouldn't embrace our wonderful dog with open arms, but many people are afraid of German Shepherds, and more and more breed restrictions have been observed in a variety of places. As sad and disappointing as that is, make sure you are aware of it before you go so you can patronize places that welcome you and your German Shepherd with open arms. AUTHOR BIO Ralf Weber Ralf Weber is a certified dog trainer and behaviorist. A professional member of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP), an AKC evaluator for Puppy S.T.A.R., Canine Good Citizen and Community Canine certifications, author of the dog behavioral book: "If Your Dog Could Talk" and owner of the dog training company Happy Dog Training. Ralf works with clients in Southern California and can be contacted through his website at HappyDogTraining.info.
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Canine Epilepsy: 12 Important Tips if Your Dog Has a Seizure
Canine Epilepsy: 12 Important Tips if Your Dog Has a Seizure Once upon a time, euthanasia was the suggested protocol for dogs with seizure disorders or Canine Epilepsy (Epi-dogs), but, thankfully, that is so not the case today! Now, there are many resources and healthcare routes to explore, both medical and alternative that just didn’t exist years ago. Having a trusting, solid relationship with your veterinarian is key. There are also some wonderful online support groups where members share their stories, recommendations, treatment options, and support. The important thing to remember is that you are not alone. Your dog just had a seizure. Now what should you do? 1. Got to the Vet The first thing to do when your dog has experienced a seizure is get him/her to the vet. It’s important to be sure there is no serious underlying health issue causing the seizure. The vet will run some tests, and depending on your dog’s diagnosis, you will discuss different courses of treatment. Or, you may be advised to wait to see if s/he has another, as it could be just a one-time occurrence. 2. Research. Research. Research Do all the research you can on Canine Epilepsy, seizures, food and environmental triggers, medications, alternative therapies, and treatments, etc. Become your own personal expert on the disease so you can have well-informed conversations about your dog’s care with your veterinarian. 3. Network There are some excellent Canine Epilepsy online resources, including various organizations, social media pages and groups, and listserv groups, including the Canine Epilepsy Resources Epil-K9 Email list. 4. Stay Calm As hard as this is… it’s important for both you and your dog that you remain calm before, during, and after a seizure. 5. Think Cool Seizure activity can drive a dog’s temperature up dangerously high. Place instant ice packs (frozen peas, frozen veggies, even loaves of frozen bread will do in a pinch) behind your dog’s neck, under the “arm pits” of his legs, back of neck, and belly. Also cool down the paw pads with cool water. 6. Give a Snack After dogs come out of a seizure, a little all-natural vanilla ice cream, honey, or natural maple syrup will help to raise their sugar levels back up. Follow with a protein such as little kibble, cheese stick, a spoonful of cottage cheese, chicken, etc. to help stabilize those sugar levels. 7. Water Is a Must Let your dog take some sips of water. 8. Think Safety Your dog may experience confusion and temporary blindness post-seizure. Be sure s/he is in a safe area (no stairs, wires, etc.). 9. Give Hugs and Reassurance Speak in soft, reassuring tones repeating your dog’s name as you pet and hold your dog close. He won’t remember his seizure, but he may come out of one shaken. A familiar voice and a little calming influence will go a long way in keeping him/her calm. 10. Secure Family Pets It’s a good idea to keep other family pets safely secured in another room while your dog is having seizures. The other pets can get confused and may even attack the seizing dog out of fear. 11. Journal Start a journal and note the date and time of the seizure(s), how long it lasted, how your dog acted, what your dog was doing before seizure, what the weather was like, was your dog out in the yard, was the TV on, how long the postictal stage lasted, etc. These notes are very important to help create a seizure log and discuss with your vet. 12. First Aid Kit If you don’t already have a First Aid Kit for your Epi-dog, now is a good time to create one. Include items such as the journal, medications, natural calming aids, instant ice packs, dog ear thermometer, vet and emergency hospital contact numbers, honey or maple syrup, moist wipes for post-seizure cleanup, etc. Seeing your dog have a seizure is a scary thing to witness. But, with some special care, and lots of love, Epi-dogs can – and do – live full, happy lives! Dorothy Wills-Raftery Dorothy Wills-Raftery is an award-winning photojournalist and author of EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy; the FiveSibes™ Tales children’s books: What’s Wrong With Gibson? Learning About K-9 Epilepsy and Getting Healthy With Harley: Learning About Health & Fitness; and Buddy, the Christmas Husky~Based On A True Holiday Miracle books (ArcticHouse Publishing), as well as the FiveSibes.com, an online encyclopedia for the Siberian Husky breed and Canine Epilepsy information, as well as her international award-winning FiveSibes blog, based on the lives of her five Siberian Huskies. Her work has also appeared in American Pet Magazine, Ruff Drafts, The Sled Dogger, and Hudson Valley Paw Print Magazine. Dorothy is the writer and host of "The Sibe Vibe” Dog Works Radio show. Dorothy is a 9-time Dog Writers of America Association “Excellence” nominee, winning the prestigious Maxwell Medallion in 2017 and 2016 for her writing, photography, and design. Her book EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy received the 2018 Independent Press Award for “Excellence” in the Reference Book category and 2017 NYC Big Book Award for “Excellence” in the Animal/Pet book category. Dorothy was also named “Best Author” in 2015 & 2016 by Hudson Valley Magazine and all four books named “Best in Print” by American Pet Magazine, An official International Purple Day® for Epilepsy Ambassador since 2012 and a volunteer case manager for The Wally Foundation-Canine Epilepsy, Dorothy is the creator of the FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Awareness campaign and partnered with The Anita Kaufmann Foundation for #Paws4Purple Project, both inspired by her own epileptic Husky, Gibson. In addition to her Siberian Huskies, Dorothy shares her home with her husband, daughter, son-in-law, and grandson. You can follow Dorothy and her FiveSibes on Facebook at FiveSibes: Siberian Husky K9 News & Reviews, on Google + , Twitter, and Instagram(@FiveSibesMom). :|zpendofcontent|:
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Train Your Dog to Resist Temptation in Four Easy Steps!
Train Your Dog to Resist Temptation in Four Easy Steps! Dogs are like turkeys in one important way: they love to gobble. They gobble up stuff that they find on walks. They gobble up stuff that they thieve from the cupboard. And we all end up dropping stuff that our dogs consider imprudently gobble-worthy, too. Sometimes the things we drop are dangerous, like medication. Sometimes, we drop (and they gobble) something they have a criminal history with, like sunglasses, a remote control, dirty laundry…. You know what I’m talking about. In the face of dogs’ superior speed and imperviousness to unpalatability, it makes sense to train a dog to “leave it.” Imagine this: you’ll simply say “leave it!” when you accidentally drop something forbidden. Your dog, to the surprised oohs and aahs of your family and friends, will pause and look at you (often adoringly) instead of charging over to eat, steal, shake, bury, play keep-away, or otherwise act, well, like a dog. What a useful trick, and so deliciously easy to train over just a few days. Here’s how… Step One: Put a really good treat in a tightly closed fist and hold it out to your dog. He will likely chew, paw, and lick your hand – just ignore him. Stay as still as a statue until your dog backs off or looks away for just a single tiny split second. As soon as that happens, say “take it” and open your hand, allowing him to eat the food. Do this ten or twenty times, then move on. Step Two: It’s time to up the ante. Get ready to move fast – your dog will, and you can’t let him win. Ask your dog to “Leave it!”, and offer your dog a treat on an open, flat palm, about a foot from his nose. The instant he starts to move towards your hand, smoothly and quickly close your hand and lift it up and away. Your dog will see that heading towards the treat causes it to run away. Try again, and be ready to snatch it away again. After five or ten times, your dog will likely give you something new: a brief pause. (It’s as though they are saying: “this isn’t working. What else can I try?”) As soon as you see that pause, say “take it!”, and give him the treat. Repeat until your dog won’t go for the treat at all. Then, hold the treat out for three seconds before he is allowed to “take it.” Step Three: We’re starting to get closer to real life scenarios now. Cue “Leave It,” and then place the treat on the floor about a foot from the dog. Cover it briskly as soon as he starts to come towards it, and then try again. After a few attempts, he’ll likely go back to pausing. Reward this with a treat, now from your pocket rather than the goodie on the floor. When he’s done five in a row without going for the treat, leave it down for three seconds, and then five seconds. Step Four: Stand near your dog, and gently drop a treat. The same rules apply: be ready to cover the treat if your dog makes a break for it! Your dog is likely wise to the game now, though, and after a few thwarted attempts to zoom in he should be back to pausing politely. Reward the pause from your pocket (in fact, you’ll need to continue to reward this behavior frequently. This is work, and work earns a paycheque. If you stop paying, your dog will – quite reasonably – stop working.) Once your dog has paused politely five times in a row, try dropping a couple of treats. Then more interesting forbidden stuff, like leftovers. At this point, most dogs don’t need more set-ups. They are ready for the real world. Final note: If you get bogged down, take a positive dog class that includes Leave It on the curriculum. Practising all alone is no one’s strong suit and the repetition and coaching in class will be a godsend. Best of luck taming your grabby gobbler! Kristi Benson Kristi Benson is an honours graduate of the prestigious Academy for Dog Trainers, where she earned her Certificate in Training and Counseling (CTC). She lives and works in the Parkland Region of central Manitoba Canada, where she teaches dog obedience classes and helps dog owners in private consultations – both in-person and via video chat – for a full range of dog problems, from basic obedience to aggressive behaviour. Kristi is on staff at the Academy for Dog Trainers, helping to shape the next generation of canine professionals. Kristi’s dogs are rescue sled dogs, and for fun she runs them with a dog-powered scooter and on skis. Contact her through her website, and check out her blog, Facebook page, or Twitter for training tips, articles about dogs and training, and more. :|zpendofcontent|:
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How to Deal With Dogs Who Get Carsick
How to Deal With Dogs Who Get Carsick Imagine traveling to the park with your dog and then your pet suddenly starts to drool and looks a bit worse for wear. Before you can do anything, the dog brings all its food back up, all over your car. It is a good thing if you have a dog seat cover installed but this is probably not what you were hoping for. Dogs get carsick, probably more often than people do. One of the main problems with this is that dogs who get carsick often start to fear driving, meaning any future trips become increasingly stressful. Luckily, there are plenty of things you can do to stop this from happening, making sure your dog no longer suffers and can enjoy riding in the car again. Understanding Dog Carsickness Car sickness in dogs is incredibly common in puppies, in the same way that it is more common in children. “Young dogs may experience this condition more frequently because their equilibrium needs to develop a bit more as they mature.” Basically, the structures in their ears that are used for balance are not properly formed yet. It is also for this reason that most dogs will outgrow carsickness. However, if by this time your dog has developed a fear of the car, you may never find out about this. Indeed, if your dog got sick during the first few trips of its life, it will associate vehicles with vomiting and will resist getting into a car. Like a vicious cycle, the stress that the dog experiences from driving make it feel sick, which means it will get even more fearful of cars and so on. Dogs have real emotions, and worry is one of those emotions. The Signs of Dog Carsickness Your dog will not suddenly have a slightly greenish color when it starts to get carsick. However, there are a few clear signs of it happening. This includes listlessness, inactivity, yawning, general uneasiness, excessive drooling, whining and vomiting. Luckily, there are plenty of things you can do to stop your dog from feeling so bad. How to Treat Dog Motion Sickness There are many ways to stop your dog from feeling sick in the car. What matters most is that you make sure the dog is fully comfortable before you set off. Additionally, just as with humans, positioning is hugely important. A dog that sits in the front seat and faces forward will have fewer visual cues that could lead to nausea or vomiting. Do make sure you have a front seat cover in place, just in case you can’t stop in time. At the same time, however, you do have to understand the dangers of allowing your dog to ride on the front seat. Just as with children, it is at risk of the airbag if it should be deployed. It is for this reason that most people will crate their dog. However, a crate is a dog’s home and it will do everything it can to stop soiling it. Hence, if it does have an accident, it may no longer take to the crate at all. Wherever you decide to place your dog, you need to make sure that it is safely in place. Do also make sure that you travel on an empty stomach, although you should also not travel with a hungry dog. “Try not to give your dog food or water before taking a car ride. It’s less likely that your dog will get sick if there is nothing in his belly.” Next, make sure there is plenty of fresh air circulating through the car, particularly during motion. Doing so makes sure that the vehicle’s air pressure is properly balanced. This, in turn, can stop a dog from feeling sick or even uncomfortable. Ventilation and making sure a vehicle is not too hot are hugely important in terms of stopping car sickness, but also in terms of keeping your dog safe. The Emotional Impact of Travel Sickness If your dog did get carsick at any point, it will probably be resistant to any further traveling. There are a few things you need to do at that point, because you will effectively have to address two separate things. First of all, take a break. Allow your dog to regain trust in itself. In extreme cases, you may even want to change vehicles. Once your dog is slightly more settled, take a few short trips and make sure the destination is always fun. A trip to the vet is not a good idea, in other words. You need to build your dog’s tolerance up in a gradual way. Allow it to approach the vehicle on its own terms first. Then, let it get into the car, but don’t actually drive. Only once you feel your dog is ready should you start taking those fun, short trips. You can use treats for this, but be aware of the fact that these can contribute to your dog’s nausea. You might want to consider adding a special toy to the car that your dog can use only on those journeys. What About Medication? There are a number of options available to you if you want to medicate your dog against motion sickness. “If a dog doesn’t outgrow motion sickness or respond to conditioning techniques, consult your veterinarian about medication to help your dog. There is a medication approved for preventing vomiting due to motion sickness in dogs.” However, only do this after consultation with a vet and if there are no other options. :|zpendofcontent|:
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5 Easy Ways to Keep a Clean Home (and Your Sanity) During Shedding Season
5 Easy Ways to Keep a Clean Home (and Your Sanity) During Shedding Season Owners of pets that shed know that shedding season can be quite the nightmare. Huge wads of hair seem to take over your home, and you spend most of your time looking like a Yeti. Most pet owners would like to keep their house clean and tidy – even when it seems your pet is quickly turning bald. And most embarrassingly: don’t you just hate it when your guests leave your home covered in nasty fluff? A few simple tips will help you win the battle against pet hair: 1. Brush Your Pet Daily to Remove Loose Hair To keep pet hair from invading your home, you need to go to the source. By brushing your pet daily – or at least once a week – you can significantly reduce the amount of pet hair that gets wafted into the air every time your pet moves. During shedding season, it might be a good idea to take the brushing session out on the porch to keep the loose hair outside. Not only is brushing a great way to minimize the amount of pet hair in your home, but it is also an excellent opportunity for some bonding time between you and your pet. 2. Daily Upkeep Vacuuming With a Handheld Vacuum Having a compact and convenient cordless vacuum at hand is another simple way to keep that accumulating pet hair under control. A small handheld vacuum or a versatile stick vacuum is always charged and ready for a quick cleanup. And upkeep vacuuming is one of the most important ways you can survive the shedding season with a tidy home. Spending just a few minutes every day on vacuuming the critical spots, you can make sure your home is always ready to welcome guests. Just make sure you find the right vacuum that can handle pet hair and it’s gone! 3. Put Your Clothes Away and Minimize Clutter Pet hair tends to find its way to piles of clothes and other sundry clutter. Make sure you fold the laundry and put away your used clothes so that they stay pet hair –free for the next time you use them. Also, make sure you clear the clutter every day. It makes cleaning easier and cuts down the places where pet hair can hide. 4. Use Pet Blankets to Cover Beds and Furniture Using pet blankets and pet beds protect your furniture and bed. We all know that pets love to curl up in the corner of the couch or on your bed. And especially if its shedding season, you will find your pet's favorite spot covered in hair. Teaching your pet to have its own bed or to lay on top of a pet blanket makes cleaning much easier. Your clothes won’t be covered in hair when you sit down, and cleaning up is as simple as popping the items in the washing machine and dryer once a week. 5. Have Lint Rollers Readily Available A lint roller can be the pet owners best friend. No matter what you do, you will probably find pet hair on your clothes. Have a lint roller always at hand – one in your car, another in your purse or briefcase, a third in the hallway cabinet. Quickly run the roller through your clothes and even use them on your furniture for a quick tidying up before your guests arrive. The shedding season can be challenging, but with just a few minutes every day, you can minimize the pet hair accumulating in every nook and cranny. And there is one bonus tip as well! If your life is hectic and you feel you just don’t have the time to keep your home clean, you should consider getting a robotic vacuum. It can make a huge difference by keeping all floor areas pet hair–free – and doing so while you’re at work or having a nice long walk with your dog. The shedding season doesn’t necessarily mean losing your sanity with the fluff taking over your home. Just stick to these tricks and get rid of that pet hair! Matt Clayton Matt is the founder of PetHairPatrol.com, a website dedicated to finding the best products to keep that pet hair from invading your home. He lives in New York with his two golden retrievers: Ben and Jerry. Once he opened a carton of yogurt, and immediately there was a dog hair inside. That's when he decided to find the best ways to get rid of pet hair and start a website to share his knowledge. He has researched and reviewed hundreds of products that help you keep your home clean - even when you have furry roomies. He loves running and Italian pizza. He hates pigeons. And obviously, pet hair! :|zpendofcontent|:
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5 Things You Need To Know Before Neutering Your Dog
5 Things You Need To Know Before Neutering Your Dog They say that overpopulation of any kind is bad for the environment. This goes for the overpopulation of dogs too. Why? For starters, the more stray dogs there are, the higher the risk of posing danger to the neighborhood. Plus... who wants to see tons of dog litter? Aside from dog poop here and there, the danger of spreading rabies through dog attack is definitely a major consideration. The simplest way help stop this is spaying and neutering of dogs. But first, let me differentiate the two. Spaying is for female dogs, while neutering is for male dogs. What is Neutering? It is a procedure done on a male dog to prevent him from making puppies. It is often called the “big snip,” and it does more than just preventing population increase, dog neutering has a lot of other health benefits. Other Benefits of Dog Neutering The following are a few of the health benefits dog neutering can offer to your pets: Prevention of certain diseases, like testicular cancer and various types of prostate diseases. Your dog will be calmer and will “mark” less. Dogs pee in almost every place they want to mark to make their presence known to other male dogs. He will be less aggressive and will improve on roaming, humping and other behaviors that pronounce dominance. Less fights with other dogs, especially male dogs. It usually happens when they are in heat and are fighting for the attention of the same female dog. At this point, you may already be convinced on having your dog neutered. Well, if that is the case, you need to know what preparations are necessary in order to ensure the safety of your canine. What preparation do I need to know in order to ensure the success of dog neutering? The preparation will involve three phases: the pre-surgery, the actual surgery and post operations. First, let’s discuss pre-surgery preparations: You may think that dogs do not need to go through lab works because they are animals. But just like us humans, before we subject ourselves to an invasive procedure such as surgery, our loving pets also need to have a pre-surgical blood work. This will make sure that our pet is healthy and will not encounter any complications during and after the procedure. One very important pre-op preparation is not to feed your dog any solids at least 8 hours prior to the procedure. You may think that fasting your pet is cruel, but believe me, it is better than subjecting them to nausea after getting anesthesia. You might ask, “how about drinking water?” Although it is generally acceptable to give them something to drink, you may still want to ask your vet for clearance. How about during the surgery, what do I need to remember? One very important tip to keep in mind during surgery is to keep calm. When you bring your dog to the vet for neutering, make sure that you as the pet owner remain calm. Generally speaking, pets feed off their master’s emotional state. So if you are jittery, your dog can very well sense this. If you are calm, it will make them feel more comfortable and secure... and believe me, it will go a long way! What about post-operative preparations? Just like us humans, dogs who have undergone a major procedure, such as neutering, need time to recover. Some vets will ask the dog to stay overnight at the clinic for monitoring while others may release them. Once they go home, it is crucial that you know what signs to watch out for in case of any infections or complications. If the surgery went successfully, our dogs should be up and about after a few days. Since they were administered anesthesia, expect them to be lethargic a few hours to a day. After that, they should go back to their normal selves. Neutering can generally make them feel more calm, it may be normal to see this change. Licking can inflame the wound. So to keep your dogs from doing this, it is most advisable to put an Elizabethan collar, otherwise known as “cone of shame,” around his neck. This will facilitate faster healing. It is also wise to restrict their activities. Just like us humans, after getting out of the hospital coming from a major surgery it is the doctor’s order to rest. Same thing with our dogs. It is most wise to put them inside a crate. If they are too big to be put inside a crate, you may want to put a gate or create a specific area for their recovery. Make sure that it is safe, clean, and well-ventilated. It might also be necessary to give them pain relievers. Remember that they were just operated on so there is a fresh wound. Once the anesthesia wears off it may be very painful for them. If you do not manage the pain, your dog may cause some trouble. Congratulations on deciding to have your dog neutered! You are not only helping control the population boom of dogs, but you are also being a responsible pet owner. I hope that all the information I shared can help you take care of your dog after neutering. Carlo Bueza Carlo Bueza is a loving husband, proud father, dog lover and the author of DogsNStuff.net. He used to teach in the university but instead, decided to work from home to spend more time with his family and his second love, his dogs. He has been a dog owner since he is 8 years old and now, at 30 he still continues to become a happy dog owner and is starting to teach his young child to become like him. Right now, he owns a Labrador, and a Shih Tzu. In the course of 22 years of being a dog enthusiast, he has already gained much-needed experience in handling a variety of breeds, like Poodle, Duschand and Chow chow. And now, it’s his way of paying forward to share his passion for taking care of dogs and share his knowledge with fellow dog lovers. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Keeping Your Dogs Happy When You Are Away from Home
One of the most successful ways to keep your dog happy and busy whilst you are out from the family home is to introduce some environmental enrichment. Essentially you are giving your dog lots of fun things to think about and do whilst you are away at work for the day, it also helps them keep up their natural behaviors of sniffing out items, being inquisitive and perhaps jumping up, digging and reaching for objects. Some examples that are easy to make, cheap and the kids will also have fun being involved! These include objects that make the dog … Continue reading →
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Dog Saliva: Can Dog Kisses Cure You?
Dog Saliva: Can Dog Kisses Cure You? It’s inevitable with an affectionate dog that he or she will get in a few licks on your face from time to time. We also are drawn to sometimes think about the “ick factor” when we observe where that adorable dog’s tongue has been beside just in his puppy chow. And of course, some dogs just have a tendency to drool, whether it’s a breed thing like for those sloppy chops of the St. Bernard or behavior-triggered like Rover shares a little spit with that old tennis ball he finds so fun to keep dropping in your lap. Some people believe that since dogs lick their own wounds to help them heal, they should be able to work the same magic on human cuts and scrapes, too. The ancient Egyptians used to praise dog saliva for its healing ability. They even had temples devoted to dogs where people would encourage pups to lick their open wounds and heal them from illnesses. That might seem a little weird now because we know a lot about germs that seems to contradict what the ancients knew. That is until now. New research suggests that those puppy kisses may actually be good for you. Wait, Aren’t There Germs in Dog Saliva? Just like our mouths are full of germs, your dog’s mouth is teeming with bacteria and parasites that can infect you and your family members. From salmonella and E. coli to worms and giardia, you have to be careful about your playful dog’s licks all the time. You see, when a dog licks his bum, the nasty bacteria released from his intestines may move from his bum to his mouth. You’ll be receiving this transfer of nasties every time your dog licks you. Yuck! So how can this be good for you? Research on Dog Saliva University of Arizona researcher Charles Raison, MD, believes that dog saliva may have a “probiotic” effect that may help humans “develop healthy bacteria colonies that in turn boost the immune system.” Maybe they’ll start adding dog saliva to yogurt? Dog saliva also has lysozyme, which prevents certain bacteria from growing, histatins that help skin cells heal a wound, and nerve growth factor (NGF). Scientists at the University of Florida discovered that when a wound is doused with the NGF in saliva, it heals twice as fast. But this evidence is still up for debate. Psychology Today says that licking a wound may be positive just for the simple act of loosening debris to keep the wound clean so it heals well. After all, a dog can’t bandage his wound himself. So What Should You Do? Dogs have been licking their wounds since the dawn of their existence, but you definitely shouldn’t let them lick yours. Sure, there may be some benefits that scientists are still working out, but the risk of having other unhealthy bacteria infect your wound is nothing to mess around with. If dog saliva was really some magical cure-all, we would see puppy drool bottled and lining the shelves of our pharmacies right now. Craig Davis Zach is a life-long pet owner and enthusiast. He was born into a family with a dog named Murphy, and since then has owned several other dogs, mice, ferrets, fish, geckos, and a cat. This experience has given him the knowledge necessary to help others become excellent pet owners on his website Beyond The Treat with detailed gear, housing, and feeding guides for all pets. :|zpendofcontent|:
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One Common Thing That Is More Toxic Than Chocolate for Dogs!
One Common Thing That Is More Toxic Than Chocolate for Dogs! What could be more toxic than chocolate? Actually, I didn’t know the answer until I did the research. The startling fact that thousands of products contain this substance stymied me. There are no warning labels for pet owners. Because these products are made for people, hundreds of dogs and cats suffer when adults or children leave these foods and products where pets can ingest them. This substance naturally develops in grapes and onions. Is also an ingredient often added to gum, candy, mouthwash, toothpaste, and ear medications for children, plus it is added to many prepared foods. Gum, candy, peanut butter all harmless, right? WRONG! What is okay for people to eat, proves toxic for pets. Chocolate and nuts are two examples of what people can eat, yet can be lethal for pets. Xylitol damages dogs’ livers. In both people and canines, liver failure often means the end of life. A Tiny Bit Could Kill Your Dog… In an article in The Wall Street Journal, Mark Maremont reported that, “Besides gum, xylitol is used by manufacturers in products including mints, gummy vitamins, toothpaste, specialty peanut butter and melatonin sleep aids—in part because it has about two-thirds the calories of sugar and is safer than sugar for diabetics. Some gum makers cite studies showing dental-health benefits.” “A type of sugar alcohol extracted from plants, xylitol is well-tolerated by humans, but in dogs causes a sudden release of insulin, resulting in low blood sugar and potentially leading to seizures and brain damage. It also can cause liver failure. Xylitol has been added to literally thousands of products. It is safe in these many products for people, but it kills dogs and cats.” Toxin Levels for Pets in Xylitol Products Hershey’s Ice Breakers contain 10 times the pet toxic Xylitol level per piece. “Xylitol makes up more than half the weight in certain Ice Breakers flavors, about 1.2 grams of xylitol per piece, according to Hershey’s consumer helpline. That’s about 8 to 10 times the amount of xylitol in some other popular gums. A pack of the brand, introduced in 2006, contains 40 pieces.” Hard candies, breath mints, toothpaste, tooth whiteners, mouthwash, some jams and jellies all contain xylitol. The U.S.A. Federal Drug Administration does not require warning labels on any of these sweet treats. As reported in the Wall Street Journal article, “A toxic dose of xylitol—enough to potentially cause low blood sugar or other symptoms—is 0.1 grams per kilogram of the dog’s weight.” one piece of Xylitol could be toxic for a 26-pound dog one piece is 12 times as toxic as a piece of dark chocolate the same weight 100 times as harmful to dogs as milk chocolate From Mark Maremont, “Sweetener in Gum Is Causing Surge in Accidental Dog Poisonings” The Wall Street Journal, November 2, 2015. “Xylitol is extracted from plant material and is available as an ingredient (additiive) in more and more foods, but the amount naturally occurring in foods is very small. In addition to gum, xylitol can now be found in some hard candies, chocolate, table syrup, jams, and jellies.” WebMD.com/ supplements/xylitol What other health risks does xylitol pose for pets? “…some animal studies have shown tumor growth resulting from high doses of xylitol over long periods.…” – WebMD Warning for Dog Owners “If you are a dog owner, be aware that xylitol can be toxic to dogs, even in small amounts” chewable vitamins Nicorette Gum IceBreakers Peanut Butter (some brands) chocolate toothpaste Xlear Nasal Spray Note: This list is far from complete. Please read the labels on anything you put on pet level in your car and home. Dogs love sweets. Keep these foods containing xylitol away from pets: onions garlic onion like shallots, green onions, etc. peanut butter grapes raisins chocolate anything baked with xylitol Xylitol Poisoning Affects Canine and Feline Livers Xylitol may kill pets that ingest it. If you suspect your dog of eating any items made with this toxin, immediately rush your pet to a veterinarian. Symptoms of Poisoning: loss of balance difficulty breathing difficulty walking refusal to drink refusal to eat unconsciousness Please help dog lovers and cat lovers by sharing. Here’s hoping all dog lovers will receive benefit from my second guest post on 4Knines’ blog. Ready to save pets’ lives? Please share this with dog and cat lovers everywhere. Spread the word about this natural substance, artificially introduced to our homes in dozens of products. Please share and discuss the threat to pets’ health and lives from ingesting even a small amount of xylitol. Have you had a pet that ingested xylitol? Add to our discussion in the comment section. Deborah Taylor-French Deborah Taylor-French blogs at DogLeaderMysteries.com. “…an interesting site for anyone who likes dogs.” Commented Kristina Stanley, an award-winning mystery writer. Deborah goes nose to nose for a dog-to-dog point of view. Her dog parenting tips, pet humor and stories are liked by thousands of readers. Dog Leader Mysteries I, Deborah’s first novel, is schedule for publication in 2016. In both nonfiction and fiction, Deborah’s writing demonstrates positive dog leadership and kindness toward all animals. As Author Support Facilitator for Redwood Writers, the largest branch of the California Writers Club, Deborah helps other writers. Find her true story of Sydney’s adoption from an animal shelter in, “Punk Rocker With A Poodle Brain” published in Vintage Voices Four Part Harmony. She has raised five adopted dogs. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Why Treating Your Dog’s Dirty/Smelly Ears Should Be Urgent!
Why Treating Your Dog’s Dirty/Smelly Ears Should Be Urgent! Ear infections are the single largest reason people take their dogs to the vet. However, there are actually several types of ear infections that can affect your dog. Otitis is a general term describing inflammation or infection of the ear, and it can show up in your dog in several forms. Otitis externa is commonly indicated by redness or swelling in your dog’s outer ear and his outer ear canal. This is essentially swimmer’s ear for dogs, as it’s often caused by water that gets trapped inside the ear canal. Water trapped in the ears allows bacteria to breed, and if not addressed can cause pain and swelling, as well as even infections of the bones and cartilage near the ear. If your dog’s eardrum isn’t punctured and there no pus or blood, you can suspect this most common type of ear infection. Fortunately, it’s the easiest type of dog ear problem to treat. Look for these typical signs of otitis externa: discharge from the ear, often brown or black in color, and a bad odor. Less common is otitis media, which is an inflammation of your dog’s middle ear, located behind the eardrum. The most serious infection is otitis interna, which is an infection of the inner ear, and involves the area connecting your dog’s ear to the brain, and involves important nerves governing balance and hearing. Signs of a Dog Ear Infection Some common symptoms of otitis or an ear infection in your dog include: Itchiness Ear sensitivity Inflammation of the ear or surrounding area, and Redness A bad smell coming from his or her ear Causes of Ear Infections in Dogs Dogs with floppy, hairy ears are more likely to get ear infections because their ears create the humid environment that allows bacterial growth. Many breeds have a tendency to be susceptible to ear infections, such as German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels, and Shih Tzu, to name a few. Here are some contributing causes: Bacterial infections caused by Staphylococcus bacteria “Staph” infections are caused by a group of bacteria that can infect many parts of your dog’s body. Dogs with staph infections in their ears have the signs of listed above, including smell, pain, redness, etc. Puppies and aging dogs with weaker immune system are particularly prone to staph infections. A vet may prescribe antibiotics for staph, but several strains have become resistant. Pseudomonas include a vast group of bacteria of over 200 different species. Ears infected with this type of bacteria are often swollen and sometimes fluid-filled. Vets typical use topical antibiotic ointments, along with solutions to clean the ear. Proteus mirabilis is another common bacterium that infects dog ears. Vets may attack them by using an anesthesia, ear flush, steroids, and multiple antibiotics. Ear mites are tiny parasites that can also cause serious irritation and inflammation, especially if they get out of control and leave debris behind. Clues to ear mite invasions include your dog scratching at his ears and a tell-tale brown substance resembling coffee grounds inside his ears. Since ear mites are so tiny, identification normally viewing under a microscope. Ear mites are contagious and spread rapidly. Even a brief encounter with another infected pet can cause an infection and problems in your dog’s ears. Ear mites have become resistant to many insecticides they were once treated with, but your vet can prescribe the right treatment and there are also natural preparations available that can work. Yeast infections are a very common cause of dog ear infections and include the regular symptoms along with itching and flaking as well. Yeast infections are caused by an overabundance of a common yeast called Malassezia. If your dog swims or is otherwise frequently exposed to water, yeast infections are a likely occurrence. Yeast infections in dogs’ ears are frequently treated with topical antifungal ointments or creams, and there are also some very effective natural treatments. Allergens can cause some dogs to develop ear infections. Allergens which can affect your dog’s ears include pollen, dust, mold, particular foods, as well as fleas and tick saliva. You should know that it’s very important to treat any kind of ear infection quickly. Repeated or severe infections can cause major complications and long-term damage to your dog’s ear. Craig Davis CEO and Chief Happiness Officer at www.vet-organics.com. Craig is the founder of Vet Organics, where he and his team share additional pet-related articles on the company’s blog. Vet Organics is an eCommerce provider of EcoEars and an array of premium natural products dedicated to the health and wellness of pets. :|zpendofcontent|:
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5 Commands All Dogs Should Know
5 Commands All Dogs Should Know As a long time dog trainer, I’ve established a routine that I go through with my training clients, a routine of commands that serve more than one purpose. As dog owners, the first thing we tend to teach is “Sit” followed by “Stay” usually followed by “Come” but not many of us have a dog that will sit while company comes over, or come when called at the dog park… not saying that reading this article will give you that but it will give you some real-life skills that are not commonly used by pet owners that can be of great value to you and your dog. “Release” Command The release command is not something I see taught often in group obedience classes and almost always I need to explain what a release command is to a training client. A release command is a command that you use when the dog finished an exercise… so it tells the dog the exercise is over and you are free to go about your business. This becomes important because it allows us to get rid of “STAY” all together and just use a release command for all behavior. It works like this, ask your dog to “SIT” and then wait a few seconds and use a release word like “FREE” or “BREAK” or “OK” really any word you want as long as it’s the same word… encourage the dog to get up and reward the dog… then lengthen the amount of time and add distractions slowly until it’s reliable. It makes communication with your dog more effective and gives your dog something to wait for before bouncing out of a sit, heel or a down by their own choice. “Place” Command All of my training clients and personal dogs learn place command, no matter what their training or behavior issues. Is such an effective command for providing mental stimulation, impulse control and teaching your dog to relax which is the opposite of what most dogs experience. People have an anxious or nervous dog and then automatically think high-intensity exercise and training will make it better and often it doesn’t. Place command is the perfect solution to get dogs to tune in, relax on cue and gives them something to do as a replacement for many annoying or dangerous habits around the house. To teach your dog place take them to their bed or mat and once 4 feet are on it you can say “PLACE” and then ask them to “Down”… if they try to get off the place you simply move them back until they relax and hopefully fall asleep. Place should be practiced for at least 30 minutes each day to maintain the effect. Your dog should not move from place until you give them the release command (see above) You can slowly ask them to place for longer periods of time and add distractions like a visitor as they become more successful with it. “Control the Door” Command When I worked with service dogs this was always one of the first things they learned and was enforced at all times. It is excellent for giving dogs awesome impulse control. Control the door basically means sitting at all thresholds (crate door, exterior and interior doors, gates) and waiting for the release command before proceeding. This stops bolting and teachings dogs that even though a door might be open it doesn’t mean you can race through without permission. To start this you simply have your dog “SIT” at every threshold, open the door while the dog remains sitting and then release the dog to move through the doorway. If you are consistent with this exercise you will end up with a dog that will automatically sit at every threshold and wait for your permission to proceed. “Here” Command “HERE” is always my choice for recall commands, I feel like dogs hear the word come way too many times to make it a formal command so I always change it to Here when reteaching it. I also expect the dog to respond to “HERE” by coming to me and sitting or lying down at my side or in front of me and staying there until they hear the release command. Its great to have a dog that comes when they are called but if they are just coming to run past you or coming and darting off it’s not of much practical use. This is great for people who love the dog park, use off leash trails, campers etc… having a dog that comes when called can be a lifesaver, and adding that extra sit or down at the end until released can be great insurance if you are recalling your dog away from a dangerous situation. “Leave It” Command Another awesome exercise that is practical for daily use and also allows your dog to develop amazing impulse control skills. Leave it usually means food but I use it for almost everything (rabbits, people, dogs etc). I always start to teach it with food and it's a great compliment to the “PLACE” command. Put your dog in place and put a treat about 2 feet out of reach and when the dogs look at the treat you can say “LEAVE IT,” once the dog looks at you for guidance you can release the dog from place and allow them to get the cookie. Once the concept is there, you can transfer this to food dropped on the ground, dead animals on a walk, other dogs that might not seem friendly and people that you don’t want your dog greeting. Sarah McMurdo Sarah McMurdo is a Dog Trainer located in Ontario Canada and owner of Paws Forward Professional Dog Training. A unique approach to training and living with companion dogs Sarah takes her training methods from her background working with real life working dogs. Sarah has trained and lives with 2 retired personal protection dogs, she has trained dogs in tracking and also worked as a service dog trainer for clients with PTSD and children with autism. Fore contact information please visit www.pawsforwardlondon.com :|zpendofcontent|:
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Understanding Dog Aggression & How to Fix It
Understanding Dog Aggression & How to Fix It The Root Cause: As a severe problem behavior specialist, I have been in a unique position to meet and observe thousands of dogs who have been previously labeled as “aggressive” with no hope. Many dog owners and pet professionals assume a dog is acting aggressive because they are simply angry or scared as a human would and the reaction they display is a conscious emotional choice they are making. In reality, the majority of dogs who act aggressively are doing so because of sensory processing issues. Sensory Processing: Dogs by nature are very sensitive to their surroundings. They are constantly taking in information and processing it / responding to it. Most dogs who are socialized properly as puppies become neutralized to these potential people, places, and other animals they encounter as adults without issue. However, some dogs are wired differently. They are operating on a higher level of sensitivity which can make even the most every day of situations overwhelming to them regardless of prior exposure. Granted, a lack of socialization can cause a similar insecure response but I have seen many puppies who were socialized while making an over-stimulated association to what they were socialized to (people, dogs, environments) that led to their aggression as an adult. As I mentioned earlier, this is not a conscious choice though. Certain dogs have difficulty with sensory processing and are taking in stimuli at an overwhelmingly rapid and intense rate because it is difficult for them to “filter” life the way average dogs do. The external problem of aggression is simply a symptom stemming from the dog’s insecure way of trying to cope with the extreme discontentment they are feeling from the sensory processing struggles they are having. Based on the countless intakes I perform on dogs who’ve had prior training I have learned that many professionals are yet to understand the sensory component causing aggression in dogs. Once this root cause is addressed properly, however, a dog will begin to process the information they receive in a different and positive way instantly! I Can Relate: I feel the main reason I relate to dogs differently and understand the often overlooked sensory component of dog aggression is because I am on the autism spectrum. Autism is a spectrum disorder that affects each person differently with one of its constants being difficulty with sensory processing. People with autism also have an unfiltered way of navigating their surroundings similar to the experience of dogs who “take it all in” causing the overwhelming feeling of sensory overload which can lead to great anxiety or “meltdowns” in humans and an aggressive or avoidance response in dogs. For someone like me, it may be a certain type of sound, light, or the inability to filter out conversations in a crowded restaurant. For dogs, it can be something as minimal as the constant movement and daily activities going on around them to something intense like your neighbor’s barking dog you pass every time you go on a walk. Although I do not bark or bite, I find myself struggling to process all that is going on around me at times too. I can easily become anxious and stressed if I do not apply the sensory organization (meditative) techniques and understandings I have taught myself to help keep my sensory processing “filtered”. These are very similar to what I teach my clients and their dogs to help overcome their sensory problems too. Meditation for Dogs: Unfortunately, the word meditation conjures up many hippy visions and can be intimidating or even silly to some. The way I explain meditation is that it is simply aerobic exercise for the mind. At the level our dogs need, it is teaching them consistently how to think about and process one thought to replace the situations when they are thinking about ten things! Like exercise, the more you practice the more stamina you have for everyday activities. In terms of the mind, dog meditation teaches our dogs to have the stamina of a sensory filter to help them calmly navigate any and all of life’s interactions they may have been too stimulating previously. The actual techniques used to guide your dog’s mind to this place of Doggie-Zen is based on pressure points and focus building through basic commands which I hope will get to explain in detail in future articles. But even something as simple as getting your dog to focus on a “Sit” or “Down” command (without constant treats or corrections) for a length of time in a particular mental state can achieve the calm, single pointed equipoise of a Tibetan monk! This will gradually open your dog’s mind to even being willing to “let go” of their everyday anxieties including situations which previously would trigger an aggressive response. At first, it will be brief and require your constant guidance. However, after consistent effort, your dog will both begin to replace previous over stimulated associations with new calmer ones. Affording your dog the ability to now feel secure and learn from this new filtered way of navigating their lives via our guidance. Brett Endes Brett Endes (The Dog Savant) is a Los Angeles-based dog trainer and behavior expert who has 22 years experience working with severe problem behavior and rescue dogs. Brett is a graduate of the State University of New York and is the owner of Ican! K9, a state of the art training, boarding, and aqua therapy facility in L.A. He is known for his unique personality and effective style of dog communication he has developed by his years of work as an applied canine behavior expert. Brett lives in Los Angeles with his daughter Skylar and their Rottweiler Boo. To learn more about Brett visit www.dogtrainingla.com. Please forward all inquiries to dogtrainingla@gmail.com. :|zpendofcontent|:
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