December 20, 2018

Positive Dog Training

Positive Dog Training Everyone wants positive training, right? Why wouldn’t you? Negative training doesn’t sound like a good idea. Or “force-based training”? Or “pain-based training”? Or my favorite “outdated dominance-based theories.” And the list goes on and on. Dog owners today are being brain-washed by organizations like PETA, the ASPCA or the Humane Society of America that all dog training must be positive and anything else is outdated, not science-based and doesn’t work. And this horrible Cesar Millan guy, oh my god… Here is the problem. When well-intentioned people and organizations, who lack the most basic understanding of dog training, share their views, they are doing so from a perspective of ignorance. They are often uneducated on the facts and just go with their opinions and emotions. That may feel good but doesn’t help dogs and owners having a harmonious relationship. Within the background of this minefield, I want to share some facts, I believe every dog owner should understand. I will keep it as light as possible, although to illustrate my points, I must be a little bit “sciencey” … and I mean actual science.   What Being Positive Means First, in dog training, the term “positive” is thrown around like there is no tomorrow and it makes sense to most people. When we say something is positive, we usually mean it’s good and we call something negative when we consider it bad. But how does an electrician view positive and negative? They are just different wires. You need both to get the light turned on. The negative wire is not the bad guy. It’s part of the equation. Relax! I am not going to compare dog training to electrical wiring. The point I want to illustrate is this: words have meaning based on context. In dog training, many terms come from a scientific model called Operand Conditioning aka The Quadrant. This model is used in human and canine behavioral work and was developed by a scientist by the name of Burrhus Frederic Skinner; usually referred to as B.F.Skinner. He used four words: positive, negative, reinforcement and punishment. The first two words are paired with the second two words, to describe cause-and-effect relationships. A cause-and-effect example would be: you make that big sale (cause) and get a bonus (effect). In his model, B.F. Skinner created the following groupings of these words. Positive Reinforcement Negative Reinforcement Positive Punishment Negative Punishment   Here is the thing though, all of these are scientific terms, and none of them mean, what you may assume they mean, from every-day language. In this model “positive” refers to adding something while “negative” means subtracting something. These are operands, hence the name of the model: Operand Conditioning. These don’t mean good and bad. Reinforcement refers to making a behavior more likely to occur in the future. In our example, the bonus should be reinforcement for more big sales and the hard work to make them happen. Punishment refers to making a behavior less likely to occur in the future. If, for example, you were to become lazy at work and get fired (punishment), you will probably not be lazy in your next job, to avoid that from happening again. Transitioning this to dogs, here are a few examples to illustrate: You ask your dog to sit, he does it, you give him a treat. You are adding something (treat) to increase the likelihood with future command compliance (reinforcement) with “sit”. This is Positive Reinforcement. So far this was probably easy enough, but now it gets interesting. Next, we use all the other words and you will see, they don’t describe evil things either. They are all part of learning and they are all necessary. Let’s say you ask your dog to sit again and now he doesn’t. Are you still going to feed him the treat? Of course not, that would be silly. You may try again, but you are not rewarding him for not listening. So, what did you do by withholding the treat? You took the treat away (negative) to reduce the likelihood of non-compliance with “sit” in the future (punishment), so he can earn a cookie again. That is Negative Punishment. Was that mean? No. Was that cruel? No. Interesting what these words really mean in their context, isn’t it? Next one, let’s say your dog doesn’t like other dogs and you want him to look at you when another dog shows up instead of barking his head off. We could set up a training scenario, where we control the other dog (through another person) and every time your dog looks at you (reinforcement) we have that other dog leave the area (negative). In this example, removing the other dog is the reward for looking at you. Once your dog gets the idea that looking at you makes that other dog go away, he will look at you more readily and easily. That is Negative Reinforcement. Oh, your tortured and beaten dog. We are such monsters. Or maybe that wasn’t evil either. What do you think? One more. Let’s assume your dogs LOVES playing tug of war with you but he also likes squirrels. If he loves the game with you enough, you could produce the tug toy each time you see a squirrel in the environment and have a great play session. By producing the toy (positive) we are making squirrel chasing less likely to occur in the future (punishment). That is an example of Positive Punishment. Surprised? Probably, but I want to be fair. Slapping a prong collar on your dog and popping him whenever he sees a squirrel is also positive punishment. What most people consider a physical correction, is positive punishment. I hope these examples highlight that terms like negative and punishment mean something very different in dog training than you were made to believe by well-meaning ignoramuses. The most important thing to understand about positive training is this: You can’t stop behaviors with positive reinforcements. You can only make an alternative behavior more desirable for a dog, so he will choose it over what you want him to stop doing. If wanting something to stop is all you want, positive punishment is all there is.    Dog Training Tools I want to add a few words on dog training tools as this is obviously a related topic. Tools like prong collars or e-collars get vilified by animal rights groups as barbaric and painful. Just like said before, this is ignorance. Obviously, you can hurt a dog with these tools, but that is not what they were designed for. There is one picture that has been floating around Facebook for years, with a dog having injuries all around his neck from a prong collar that got embedded. I assume it was on too tight for too long. That is of course horrible, but not common nor the norm—otherwise there would also be way more pictures like that and not just that same one. If we judge tools—or anything, really—by the most inappropriate use, by the most unskilled people, we won’t have anything left. It may be a teaspoon to you, but I see a perfect eyeball carving tool … no more teaspoons! Clearly, that can’t be the standard. If you get to observe a skilled trainer work a dog on a prong collar or an e-collar, you see how much the dog enjoys the training, doesn’t suffer, is not being hurt and learns beautifully. Obviously, not all dogs need to be trained with these tools, but for some they are the best way to train them. It is never about inflicting pain, it is always about safety (for dog and owner) and speed of learning. Please always judge tools only by appropriate use by skilled people, because we all need to keep teaspoons available to us. Judge training by how the dog looks like. Is he enjoying the training? Is he making progress? Does he like the trainer? The last one can, of course, take a few hours in the beginning but a skilled, patient trainer will make a dog come out of its shell. On the other hand, if the dog is obedient but looks depressed, he was put under too much pressure during training. You can find plenty of examples on YouTube showcasing quick results that killed the dog’s spirit. Stand against that, I do. But please don’t vilify effective tools in the right hands, used with skill and compassion.   Picking a Dog Trainer When picking a trainer for your dog, interview them. Below are some marketing labels you will encounter with dog trainers and here are my thoughts on those. If a trainer calls themselves positive only (R+), they don’t understand the terminology of dog training. How likely will they be skilled in training your dog? Don’t get me wrong, there are some great trainers out there who market themselves as positive only, but they know their label is a marketing scheme and doesn’t describe their work based on dog training terminology. Ask questions. If a trainer calls themselves balanced, find out what that means to them. There are too many correction-centric trainers who have adopted that label, but also large number of good trainers label themselves that way. You must drill deeper to get a coherent picture. Again, we have many amazing trainers, calling themselves “balanced”, just understand what that means for their work, before you hire them. Generally, trainers who emphasize relationship building and/or a “positive first” approach are usually more enjoyable for you and your dog to work with and are some of the most skilled in the business. This includes many LIMA trainers, which stands for: Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive. NePoPo trainers is another label you will see: it stands for Negative–Positive–Positive and so is the label: Force-Free. But Force-Free is used by some very skilled e-collar trainers, as well as positive only trainers, so again, ask questions. Ralf Weber Ralf Weber is a certified dog trainer and behaviorist. A professional member of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP), an AKC evaluator for Puppy S.T.A.R., Canine Good Citizen and Community Canine certifications, author of the dog behavioral book: "If Your Dog Could Talk" and owner of the dog training company Happy Dog Training. Ralf works with clients in Southern California and can be contacted through his website at HappyDogTraining.info. :|zpendofcontent|:

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December 19, 2018

What Is the Best Dog Food to Feed My Dog?

What Is the Best Dog Food to Feed My Dog? As time goes on we are finding more and more food choices available for our dog, from commercial kibble, canned food, kibble with freeze dried raw bits for nutrition, fully freeze dried raw, frozen commercial raw patties with or without veggies and of course home-made diet. T.V. commercials tell you how good their food is for your dog, yet they have numerous recalls. Then, on the other hand, you hear horror stories about a homemade diet and organ failure from a friend of a friend. I’m hoping to shed some light onto what is best to feed your dog according to your environment, beliefs and financial budget. First off, let’s talk about dog food history. Around 1860 a man by the name of James Spratt came up with the idea that he could create more nutritionally sound food for dogs then what was available at the time, which were scraps of really anything available and biscuits. Obviously, he was on to something because it wasn’t long before a British public company took over his formula and began the commercial food industry around 1890, taking the nutritional knowledge of the day and offering it publicly. Then throughout the 1950’s, the pet food industry really boomed due to the adaptation of equipment used in the production of cereal which made it easy to produce large amounts of food for limited cost. Something that we thoroughly thought would be revolutionary, dog food that is convenient and nutritionally sound, it’s a win win…..right? #6 – T.V. Commercial Kibble I’m not going to name names, but these commercial kibble foods are the big name brands, the companies spend tons of money on commercials of a happy, gorgeous purebred dog eating their food, they tell you that “your dog will love it” and “we use only the best,” these companies highlight a small percentage of their ingredient list which may add up to maybe 5% of what is in the food, everything else is fillers, additives and preservatives. Their goal is to entice you, the owner, with pretty dogs and marketing schemes to trick you into buying their food, it’s alluring….pretty packaging, healthy dog on the front, kibble shaped in cute forms, why wouldn’t we buy it? Kibble is highly processed food, cooked so much that you basically cook all the nutrition out of it and because this happens they need to add nutrition back in, artificially. By no means am I saying that all pet food companies are feeding your dog horrendous ingredients but their #1 objective is NOT the dog, it’s to make money. PROS: Cheap for families on a budget & convenient. CONS: Nutritious enough to keep your dog alive, but will take years off your dogs’ life, increased thirst and possible recalls that can kill your dog. #5 – High Quality Kibble These foods are the commercial kibble that is sold in pet stores but don’t have the fancy commercials and because they don’t spend money on commercials they have more money to include better quality ingredients. These bags generally have a more “limited ingredient source” which is better, less preservatives and fillers which means there is better high-quality ingredients such as whole chicken, duck, beef etc. But don’t be fooled that higher quality kibble is an ideal diet for your dog, there is only 10% moisture in kibble, think about how hard their digestive tract has to work to digest that! And not to mention it causes horrendous breath, horrible gas, obesity, tartar on teeth and food intolerances in many dogs. PROS: Convenient healthier option, nutritious enough to not cause underlining health issues. CONS: Higher priced, highly processed, artificial nutrients that not all dogs do well on & can take years off your dogs’ life, increased thirst, and possible recalls that can kill your dog. #4 – Canned Food Canned food is higher on the list because of the moisture content, moisture is good for your dog, it makes it easier to digest food and the dog will absorb more nutrients compared to a hard pebble like food (kibble). This makes the dogs body work less to survive and in turn can prolong the organs, therefore having a healthier dog longer. Canned food is also more fragrant for dogs which entices them to eat what is infront of them. Canned food can often solve the “hunger strike” your dog may have going on. PROS: Convenient healthier option, limited ingredients, nutritious enough to not cause underlining health issues. CONS: Higher priced, processed and possible recalls that can kill your dog. #3 – Freeze Dried Raw This is a nice choice for those people who do not want to deal with the messiness of raw food or the hassle of a homemade diet but want something healthier than kibble and canned. It’s highly nutritious and can actually help with many food intolerances, skin issues and weight loss, however, the price of freeze dried can scare most humans off as it is one of the most expensive diets to feed your dog. PROS: Convenient healthy option, highly nutritious, easy to store, smaller and less smelly poops. CONS: Higher priced, highly processed, artificial nutrients that not all dogs do well on & can take years off your dogs’ life, and possible recalls that can kill your dog. #2 – Commercial Raw This is an ideal choice for many dog owners as the ingredients are in their whole form which is the healthiest foods for your dog (and humans), and the moisture content is high so the digestive system doesn’t have to work extra hard and it is easy and convenient. However, there has been a lot of stigma attached to feeding your dog raw regarding salmonella poisoning and other health risks to children and adults with compromised immune systems. As long as you practice safe handling with raw meat (cleaning the workspace properly with warm water and soap) and make sure to feed your dog away from young children who may go and touch their food space and contaminate their hands. But just like anything made in mass amounts, quality control can go downhill. There is always the chance of contaminated meat and recalls so make sure you know your commercial raw food comes from a reputable source where they use high quality ingredients, preferably antibiotic and hormone free animal protein. PROS: Convenient healthy option, highly nutritious, small odourless poops, releases anal glands naturally, cures food intolerances, cures skin issues, cleans teeth, fresh breath, increased brain health and will extend the life of your dog by years. CONS: Higher priced, not easy to store (you will need lots of freezer room for large breeds), there is about 5-10 min prep time each meal. #1 – Homemade Whole Food Diet (Raw or Cooked) A homemade diet is obviously by far the best route you can go, however, it is the most dangerous route if you do not know what you’re doing. Dogs required specific amounts of organs, muscle, bone and veggie per meal to ensure they are eating a balanced diet otherwise you can run into some serious complications down the road (3-5 years later). The great part about cooking a homemade meal for your dog is you can control every ingredient that goes into the meal, plus you have the option of cooking it (without bone and adding a calcium-phosphorus powder) to add variety for your dog or if you just don’t want to feed raw. Before even considering creating a homemade diet for your dog you MUST educate yourself on specific recipes for your dog (NOT GOOGLE). An example of a homemade diet consists of: 15-20% organ meats (liver, heart, giblet in chickens) 15-20% bone meal or bone 30-40% extra lean muscle meat (which should have 5-10% max fat) 15-20% fruits and veggies 2 times a week canned sardines or canned wild salmon (replaces 15-20% of muscle meat) 3 times a week eggs (which replaces 15% of muscle meat) Vitamin mix that includes: Taurine, Iron, Manganese, Iodine from standardized kelp, Vitamin E and Salt, Zinc, Copper & Vitamin D. Omega fatty acids If you cannot do this correctly, then do not attempt to make your dogs’ food, your dog will be better off eating any other option listed here. If you are interested in learning more about your dogs’ diet, I highly recommend "REAL Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats", fourth edition by Beth Taylor and Dr. Karen Becker (recipes for meals and supplements included), DVM and "Canine Nutrigenomics" by Dr. Jean Dodds. Finances We all knew when we got our dog that we would need to feed him or her, we budgeted how much it will cost estimately and made sure our dogs could eat every day. If you plan on increasing the quality of your dogs’ diet but are worried about money, search around your pet shops to see how much it will cost per month to feed your dog. A good estimate for a 50-60 lb young active dog is as follows for each food: Low-grade Kibble: $30-40/month High-Quality Kibble: $50-70/month Canned: $180 – 280/month Freeze Dried: $300/month Commercial Raw: $180-220/month ($2-$2.50/lb) Homemade Raw/Cooked: $120 – 180/month ($1.60-$1.80/lb) As the times have changed, our love for dogs changed as well, we start caring about prolonging their life to be with us longer. But how do we prolong life? We try to understand nutritional requirements to the best of our knowledge with the scientific facts available to us at the time, feed our dogs and wait to see if we did a good job, then build on that. Right now, with the current research and common sense, I opt to feed my dogs a whole food diet with variation of protein sources, veggies, cooked and raw, I see the health results, their coats are shiny, they smell beautiful (no dog smell) and I only bathe them once per year! It may cost me more now to feed them a healthy diet but in the long run they won’t need as many vet visits from complications. References: http://www.petfoodinstitute.org , History Of Pet Food http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/dr-karen-becker.aspx , Pet nutrition http://shop.mercola.com/catalog/pet-cookbook,100,0,0.htm, REAL FOOD by Beth Taylor and Dr Karen Becker Kristin Crestejo, CDBC Kristin Crestejo has been training dogs for over 10 years, 5 of those years have been running her own business, Modern Canine Training and running her Youtube channel which showcases her training techniques and tutorials for free. Her goal is to share the knowledge that stress-free, humane dog training works! There are better ways to train your dog, with no ill side effects as traditional or confrontational methods do. She is a Certified Dog Behaviour Consultant that specializes in complex behaviour cases ranging from compulsive barkers to OCD behaviours, Fears & anxieties, Aggression and Frustrations. :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 27, 2018

10 Human Foods You Can Feed Your Dog

10 Human Foods You Can Feed Your Dog We all know there are some human foods we shouldn’t feed our dogs, but what about the safe ones? I don’t know about you, but I love being able to whip up a snack for the human children, and pass some on to my dogs (who happen to be giving me the big blue puppy eyes every time.) Lets take a look at 10 human foods you can feed your dog, as well as the benefits of each: What human foods are safe for my dog? Carrots Sweet Potatoes Peanut Butter Yogurt Pumpkin Eggs Broccoli chicken Apples Cheese Carrots:  My dogs love munching on carrots. And did you know that these paw-some orange veggies are not only healthy, but have great benefits to your dogs teeth as well? Sweet Potatoes: These make great treats for our dogs. My favorite thing to do is cut them into thin slices, pop them in the oven at a low setting, and make homemade dehydrated sweet potato treats. Peanut Butter – Yogurt: I wanted to tie these two together because I will often make some frozen treats for my dogs in the summer. Simply purchase some plain, no fat yogurt, add a couple tablespoons of peanut butter, mix it all up, pour the mixture into an ice cube mold, freeze and voila! Pumpkin:  You might be surprised at how many benefits pure pumpkin has to offer a dog. Pumpkin is great for dogs who have constipation issues, as well as dogs who have soft bowel movements. Loaded with fiber, pumpkin can have a huge impact on the health of your dog. Eggs: There are a few different options when feeding eggs to a dog. Most people either crack a raw egg or two over top of dog food, or feed the entire egg (shell and all) to their dogs. Whereas some simply scramble up a batch of eggs. Either way you choose, eggs are a great choice for a healthy snack. Broccoli: Any explanation needed? I think not. Chicken: Does your dog seem to have an upset stomach? Try boiling up some chicken (no seasoning) and putting in on top of a bed of white rice for your dog! Apples: Aside from the obvious benefits of apple, this fruit also works well to help clean your dog's teeth. Simply cut into slices, and let them enjoy! Cheese: Mmmmmm cheese. Not only one of my personal favorite snacks but my dogs as well! Cheese can also work great as a high value treat during training sessions. Heck, you could teach me to do just about anything if you dangled a good piece of cheese in front of my nose! So remember next time your chopping up some carrots, or broccoli, pass some down to your dog. He will thank you for it! Don’t leave him out of holiday dinners either – make a plate of mixed veggies for him to enjoy being part of the family. * A little something to keep in mind: Always keep in mind that while there are some safe human foods you can feed your dog, they should still be given in moderation. Jenna Drady Hi, I'm Jenna Drady AKA HuskyCrazed - author and creator of ownedbyahusky.ca. I am a mother of two beautiful daughters and of course my 3 huskies. Being a husky mom for a long duration of my life, I was inspired to begin writing about them. In doing so, I started doing massive research on dog behavior, and all things dog in general. I am inspired every day by my family, and love to bring my readers valuable information as well as a little laugh while I'm at it. I created my own business partnered with my lovely mother while blogging called Pawz N Clawz Jewelry N Things.  We currently sell handmade jewelry with added pet charms, as well as a few dog toys too! As an animal rights activist, and huge believer in helping pets who have been stuck in shelters, we donate a portion of our sales to local shelters throughout Canada. :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 24, 2018

Common Sense Dog Walking!

Common Sense Dog Walking! Many dog owners in this country as well as others have or have had a dog that is reactive on the lead. This could be for numerous reasons, whether it be they are frustrated greeters that become increasingly wound up when they see other people or dogs that they cannot get to, they could be dog aggressive, or they may just be really nervous and fearful. Whatever the reason walking these types of dog can be incredibly stressful for the owners as well as the dogs! Sometimes when walking a dog that is reactive you are watching everything else as well as the dog and imagining every scenario that could possibly go wrong when you’re out; will another dog come around that corner, is that man walking toward us going to turn into the side road or not, oh no there is another dog coming in that direction we best turn around, and that lady isn’t going to call her dog or child back. A lot of the problems that arise when walking a reactive dog may not even be caused by the dog or the owner walking it but instead can be caused by the other people and other animals in the area. For some reason, people seem to lack both common sense and respect when they are taking their dogs out for a walk. Firstly, if you are taking your dog out for a walk and you know that you have no recall or a limited one at that then please don’t let your dog off when there are other dogs and people around. If you want to give your dog some space to run around without letting them off a lead then put them on a long line until you’ve got your recall to pretty much perfect. Secondly, if you see someone out and about and your dog is off lead and their dog is still on lead then call your dog, pop his lead on and give the other dog some space. You will be amazed at how this little action can cause such a big difference to an owner and their dog. Just imagine a scenario for a second, you are walking your medium sized lead reactive dog. He’s been bitten several times by other dogs before and has become increasingly more aggressive to other dogs. You’ve been working on his behaviour and are noticing some improvements and in fact he is now able to walk past most dogs now without reacting. You go for a walk in a usually quiet field and notice that there is someone walking their two dogs up ahead. You slow down feeling a little anxious but you praise your dog for not reacting to the dogs on the other side of the field. All of a sudden one of their dogs turns and starts running in your direction. You shout to the owner to keep their dog back and you get the dreaded response of ‘Oh, don’t worry! He’s friendly’ (In other words I am going to let my dog come and harass yours.) This strange dog you have never met before then rushes at your dog and you, excitable, barking and in your dogs face. Your dog by this point is completely stressed and snaps at the other dog. The owner has now reached you and disapprovingly looks at your now anxious dog and usually makes some kind of sarcastic comment about your dog’s behaviour and suddenly now in their opinion you are in the wrong. If a dog is on a lead it is usually for a reason, and other owners should learn to respect that. In the above scenario the reactive dog is now going to have to undergo all his training again to get back to the point he was at before the encounter. Common remarks that are made when you are walking a reactive dog include things like ‘well he shouldn’t be walked then’ or ‘can’t you control your dog.’ Reactive dogs have every right to be walked and a lot of the time owners are actively training the dogs, but that takes time. It really doesn’t take much to communicate with other dog walkers and to respect each others space. Don’t crowd other dogs and especially do not make decisions on what is best for a reactive dog that you don’t know but see on walks. One of the worst things that you can do is allow your dog to approach one that is reactive, ill, or even fearful and then justify it by saying things like ‘well I’m helping to socialise him’ or ‘all dogs get along with my dog’ even things like ‘I’ve had dogs all my life and this is how you get dogs used to each other.’ It’s not helpful. If a dog is wearing a yellow ribbon or a yellow vest or is on lead when out walking then please don’t invade his space. If you are unsure then simply ask the person walking the dog. If someone looks to be walking another way to avoid you and your dog then please respect that. Just a thirty-second bad interaction between a reactive and non-reactive dog can cause extreme stress to both the dog and the owner. All I ask is that we all have a little common sense when we are walking our dogs and that we don’t pretend that we know best when it comes to other people’s dogs. Respect, give space and please don’t judge when you see a dog reactive. You don’t know the cause and the owner is probably frustrated enough without your input. Jayde Davey M.ISAP CTDI I am an aspiring dog trainer, supporting positive reinforcement methods. I currently am studying an Advanced Diploma in Canine Behaviour Management and have just passed my test to become a Certified Trick Dog Instructor. I have my own blogsite with connected social media and I also run a Facebook Dog Trick group where I help people to teach their dog lots of fun tricks. I am a member of ISAP or the International Society for Animal Professionals and also have a diploma in small animal care. I own a deaf Dalmatian called Logan who I do most of my training with; he knows lots of tricks like take my socks off, fetch my a tissue and wipe your feet but I also regularly work with a miniature poodle, a cocker spaniel, a jack Russell and a border collie. I one day hope to become a professional dog trainer. Links:Blog site: www.blogthatdog.comFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Blog-That-Dog/874050032660267Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUYnyDb1wX-mvtezZq_GWzw :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 15, 2018

Can a Border Collie Live in an Apartment?

Can a Border Collie Live in an Apartment? Can a Border Collie live in an apartment? My answer to that questions is- “it depends.” Because Border Collies have been bred to herd and work, you can not expect that they will be happy living in an apartment if they are left alone for 12 hours a day. However, if the Border Collie can go to work with their human companion (maybe at a construction site or if the person has an active job), living in an apartment could be ok. A Border Collie may also be able to live in an apartment if they have a human companion that provides them exercise and MENTAL STIMULATION. Training, food toys, puzzle toys and games are all ways to provide mental stimulation to a working dog. As humans, we often have our “favorite breeds.” For me, I love Jack Russell Terriers. Because these dogs were bred to hunt, they often are high energy dogs. Although I live in a neighborhood home, I provide my JRT with mental stimulation and exercise everyday so my dogs’ need to stay busy are met. Unfortunately, many people adopt breeds without considering what the dog was bred to do. This is when behavior problems can occur. Most of our dog breeds were bred for a purpose, we need to understand that these dogs have needs that are bred into them. When choosing a dog, it is important to find a dog that has a temperament that matches your lifestyle. If you are an active person that is looking for a dog to run with, you will want to find a dog that is active as well. If you prefer a quieter lifestyle, an active dog could develop behavior problems if they did not receive enough mental and physical stimulation. Believe it or not, you can find the right temperament within your favorite breed if you are willing to look around and be patient. I know a couple very mellow Border collies that prefer to nap over playing fetch or frisbee. Overall it is important to realize that problems often occur when needs are not met. If we adopt a dog with the intention of having a running partner but the dog does not like to run, we are disappointed. If we adopt a dog that wants to herd but we expect them to lay by our feet quietly all day, the dog will become bored and will often try to entertain themselves (which often leads to undesired behaviors.) Next time you adopt a dog, make sure you think about your lifestyle and what temperament/ breed would be the best match. Shannon Coyner Shannon has been a pet lover all her life and a dog trainer for over 20 years. She has spent her life observing, caring for and training animals of all kinds. She has worked in the Bird Department at Marine World Africa USA, and worked as a handler and trainer for an African Serval Cat at Safari West, a private zoo in Santa Rosa, California. She has participated in behavior studies including observations of bald eagles and addax antelope through the San Francisco Zoo and Safari West. Her education includes a Biology Degree, specializing in Zoology from Sonoma State.  She is a "Registered Veterinary Technician," a "Certified Professional Dog Trainer" (Knowledge Assessed), a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner, a member of the "Association of Pet Dog Trainers" and a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Shannon is currently serving as President for the Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians. Shannon's dog training philosophy revolves around force-free, positive reinforcement, however, her ultimate goal is for healthy happy relationship between pets and their people. Diet, exercise, environment and training all play a significant role in achieving this goal. Shannon is currently the owner of Ventura Pet Wellness and Dog Training Center in Ventura, CA where she works with anxious and fearful dogs privately as well as teaching agility classes (Venturapetwellness.com). Shannon has also started a training website called Truly Force Free Animal Training. :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 14, 2018

15 Plants That Are Poisonous to Pets

15 Plants That Are Poisonous to Pets Plants and flowers around your home may be pretty and relaxing to you, but could you unknowingly be putting your pets at risk by growing certain species? As lifelong pet lovers, we've found that the greatest danger for animals is often the most surprising to humans. And frequently, owners won't even know there's a problem until it's too late. If your pet ingests a poisonous plant, symptoms can be noticeable anywhere from 15 minutes to a couple hours after ingestion. Watch out for:   excessive drooling diarrhea vomiting labored breathing lethargy unusually slow or fast heartbeat loss of motor coordination (including loss of balance) hypothermia (low body temperature) agitation loss of appetite urinary incontinence seizures Although over 700 plants have been identified as capable of producing a toxic reaction in animals, the following 15 plants are the most toxic to pets that we know of.   Lilies One of the most toxic in small amounts, especially to cats, they are incredibly lethal and can lead to heart and renal failure. Tulips Although tulips may indeed be as pretty as a postcard, the possible effect they can have on pets is anything but. If your pet eats a tulip plant, especially in large amounts, carefully watch for any of the symptoms listed above. Oleander Even small amounts of it are extremely toxic to animals and humans. One leaf can lead to heart failure and kill your dog. You should know that animals are more likely to eat dried leaves than live ones. Marijuana You can try giving your pet activated charcoal orally (you can buy activated charcoal at a drug store and is a good product to keep on hand), but get help if your pet isn't getting better. Sago Palm Trees Naturally found in tropical/subtropical environments, they are also used as ornamental Bonsai houseplants. All parts of the plant are considered poisonous, with the seeds (nuts) being the most toxic part of the plant. Azaleas A beautiful garden plant, azaleas considered poisonous to both pets and humans. Without treatment, your pet could easily die, so seek a vet's help immediately and let them know you suspect azalea poisoning. Castor Bean Plant Deadly to both cats and dogs, it's actually the seeds that are extremely toxic, not the beans. Death can occur within 36 hours of consumption, so it's best to contact your vet immediately if you think your pet may have eaten some. Cyclemen Another common household plant, the most poisonous part is the root. In some cases, death has been reported as a result of ingestion, so be careful! Cilantro As a general rule, spices are a no-no when it comes to your pet, however, there is some conflicting information on this one. Unless your pet is allergic, it will probably only cause some mild digestive troubles, but keep an eye out. Yew Yews contain certain compounds that have a direct effect on the heart. All parts, except for the ripe berry, are toxic and sudden death can occur within hours of ingestion. Amaryllis Amaryllis plants produce beautiful bell-shaped flowers but unfortunately, these plants contain chemicals that are toxic to felines if ingested. While the toxicity level is generally considered mild to moderate, if the cat consumes a lot of the plants, serious side effects could occur and you should seek immediate care. Autumn Crocus No debate here: this popular flower is highly poisonous. It's actually not a true Crocus, but is a member of the lily family. Poisoning symptoms are similar to arsenic poisoning. Ivy If you've ever had a run-in with poison ivy, imagine what it feels like in your mouth and tummy! Even though pets usually don't have the same symptoms as humans when they only touch any member of the ivy family, it can be disastrous when ingested. Schefflera All parts of these plants should be considered toxic, although the leaves of some species may contain little or no toxin. Due to the fact that the plant is both bitter in taste and acts as an immediate irritant to the mouth, large ingestions are uncommon. Pathos Plant Ingesting or even chewing a pothos plant may not be life-threatening to your cat or dog but it may affect their gastrointestinal tract. Eating the plant is typically not deadly unless your pet is older or unhealthy. If you suspect your pet has ingested any of the plants listed above, call your veterinarian immediately. Do not wait to see if symptoms appear, because in some cases of poisoning, by the time symptoms appear it is too late to save the animal. :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 8, 2018

Scent Work for the Family Dog

Scent Work for the Family Dog We often associate scent work with working dogs like bomb detection or medical assistance dogs. New ways dogs can help people by using the dog’s incredible powers of scent discrimination are discovered regularly. Recently, it was reported that trained dogs were able to sniff out malaria from the socks of children with malaria parasites and to distinguish between infected and uninfected children. The dogs correctly identified whether malaria was present or not in 70 percent of the infected children and in 90 percent of the uninfected children tested. This was research done by the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine and the charity, Medical Detection Dogs. There are lots of scent discrimination activities the family dog can participate in and these activities are something many dogs and owners find fun and rewarding! It has been my experience, as a trainer, that scent discrimination exercises can increase confidence in a dog and can decrease problem and destructive behavior in some dogs who need a job or a purpose. Scent discrimination activities take many forms. Two of my dogs are trailing dogs who specialize in searching for and locating missing animals. The training for this includes lots of practice time with target animals of different species. The “target” animals are animals who lay a trail (with their handler) which the trailing dog follows. As the trailing dogs learn and develop their skills, other animals and their handlers participate in the training as “decoys”. The decoy dogs and handlers also lay a trail, but the trailing dog must ignore their trails and follow the trail of the target dog who has also laid a trail. Other exercises make sure that the trailing dog is following the scent of target dog and not that of the handlers. These dogs also learn to let the handler know if the missing animal they are looking for is deceased with a trained indication. It’s well- known that dogs have been instrumental in looking for and finding lost people. Family dogs can also do search and rescue training through SAR organizations. In my area, the dogs and people must be certified by the RCMP. Tracking and trailing just for fun is something a lot of people do with their dogs. When a dog is first learning, the trail should be easy for the dog to follow and always on safe terrain. I start dogs by having the tracklayer lay the trail on a vegetative surface because it holds scent well and so that the beginner dog can more easily follow the rafts of scent left by the tracklayer. There are several things that can influence the difficulty of the trail such as weather, age of the trail, vegetation, traffic, type of surface, how quickly the tracklayer was going when laying the track and so forth. I start with a very easy trail and build the difficulty as the dog gains skill and confidence. In all trailing exercises, the handler learns to read his or her dog and understand when the dog is out of odor and when the dog is following the scent. If there aren’t courses available locally, there are many good books on tracking and trailing. Tracking and trailing work are a good foundation for dogs to then do search work. It’s also handy to have a dog who can find lost keys or a missing cellphone! Dogs can be taught to search areas for specific odors like various essential oils and there are organizations who certify instructors and hold trials for people who want to compete. The dogs often start by searching for food they like in a variety of situations like inside items, hidden around the exterior of vehicles, or hidden around exterior search areas. I highly recommend scent work for family dogs – training is accessible online as well as in many communities and it’s a lot of fun! Jane Bowers, B.A., CABC, CPDT-KA Jane Bowers has been training dogs for over two decades. She teaches people to train their dogs in group and private training courses and has a keen interest in assisting dogs with behavioral issues. Her company is Dogs of Distinction Canine Training Inc. Jane has a monthly newspaper column on dog related topics and is a former host of a live call in TV show on animals. She is a strong advocate for force free and humane training methods for all animals. Jane has a degree in psychology and is certified as a dog trainer through the Certification Council of Professional Pet Dog Trainers and as a behaviour consultant through the International Association of Behavior Consultants and through the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals.  These organizations require a minimum number of continuing education units be obtained to retain certification. She is also a professional member of "The Pet Professional Guild," an organization committed to force-free training of animals and the "Association of Professional Dog Trainers," a professional organization of individual trainers who are committed to being better trainers through education. Jane is the content creator of the online course "Assessing and Interpreting Dog Behaviour," which is a course for law enforcement personnel who meet unfamiliar dogs in the course of their duties. She is the author of "Perfect Puppy Parenting," a guide to raising a happy, confident, well-behaved dog. Jane spent 17 years working for Customs Border Services and in joint teams with US Homeland Security and the RCMP. She spent a further 8 years working as an Animal Control Officer and Bylaw Enforcement Officer. Jane lives on a small farm with dogs, sheep, donkeys, and chickens. The dogs each came from situations that prevented them from living in their original homes. The dogs range in size and age and with the dog training and behavioral work, whether it's participating in the development of an online training course, working with a client's dog or tracking a lost pet or animal. :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 3, 2018

#Paws4Purple: Important Canine Epilepsy Resources

#Paws4Purple: Important Canine Epilepsy Resources November is Epilepsy Awareness Month. According to the Epilepsy Foundatio­n, “Epilepsy is a condition of the brain causing seizures. A seizure is a disruption of the electrical communication between neurons.” As with humans, dogs can have seizures and also be diagnosed with epilepsy. If your dog has a seizure­­, do you know what to do? First thing, after making sure the area is clear so your dog cannot get hurt while seizing, is to call your vet. Next, become informed about seizures in dogs and Canine Epilepsy so you can have an in-depth conversation with your vet about anti-seizure medications, supplements, nutritional changes, possible triggers, items for an Epi First Aid Kit, and alternative treatments for your dog.   Today, there are some excellent resources available to become better acquainted with Canine Epilepsy and seizures in dogs. #Paws4Purple is a fairly new not-for-profit program partnership between The Anita Kaufmann Foundation, global sponsor for Purple Day® and World Epilepsy Day™ and the FiveSibes™ #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Awareness & Educational Campaign. The partnership was established on Purple Day®, March 26, 2018, in an effort to help educate and inform the public about dogs living with seizures, and to provide important reputable resources to help serve as a guide for those caring for a dog with Canine Epilepsy, while emphasizing FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong’s motto that dogs can—and do—live happy lives with Canine Epilepsy.   Free #Paws4Purple Informational Materials   If you are with a veterinary office, ER clinic, rescue, grooming business, doggie day care, canine school, dog park, or work for a school district, police or fire department, or any other organization, municipality, or group that would like a supply of #Paws4Purple flyers and/or bookmarks to hand out, simply Email annmarie@akfus.org and put #Paws4Purple in the subject line and let the organization know where to send them. They are free of charge, but a donation to The Anita Kaufmann Foundation is greatly appreciated. Digital downloads are also available at: http://purpledayeveryday.org/paws-4-purple/   Additional Resources on Canine Epilepsy:   FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Library – https://fivesibes.com/k-9-epilepsy-awareness.html Blu's Tales Foundation on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/BlusTaleFoundation/ Canine Epilepsy Resources/Home of the Epil-K9 List – www.canine-epilepsy.com Canine Epilepsy Network – www.canine-epilepsy.net Dr. Karen Becker, Mercola Healthy Pets, What Causes Seizures in Pets Video – https://youtu.be/ZVnaIujDzqE EPIc Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy Book, written by Dorothy Wills-Raftery – www.arctichousepublishing.com FiveSibes™ “The Sibe Vibe” Purple Day® Show: The Important Link Between Zinc Deficiencies and Seizures – http://dogworksradio.com/the-sibe-vibe-presents-margit-maxwell-2/ FiveSibes™ “The Sibe Vibe” Talking Canine Epilepsy with Dr. Arnold Rugg of Kingston Animal Hospital – http://dogworksradio.com/the-sibe-vibe-presents-dr-arnold-rugg/ FiveSibes™ “The Sibe Vibe” Talking Seizures in Dogs with Dr. Karen R. Muñana of North Carolina State University College of Veterinary Medicine – http://dogworksradio.com/the-sibe-vibe-presents-dr-karen-munana/ FiveSibes™ Purple Day® for Canine Epilepsy Awareness Video – https://youtu.be/4_R_v99QnDY North Carolina State University College of Veterinary Medicine Companion Animal Epilepsy – www.go.ncsu.edu/epilepsyresearch Olivia’s Quick Sniff eBook Series on Canine Epilepsy - https://knottytoysforgooddogs.blog/ebooks/ Royal Veterinary College University of London – www.rvc.ac.uk (type “epilepsy” in search box) The Epi Guardian Angels – www.canine-epilepsy-guardian-angels.com The Wally Foundation-Canine Epilepsy on Facebook (for possible financial assistance for medications) – https://www.facebook.com/thewallyfoundation/ The American Kennel Club (AKC): Can CBD Oil Help Dogs With Epilepsy? The AKC Health Foundation Investigates - https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/cbd-oil-for-dog-seizures/ Toby’s Foundation – http://www.tobysfoundation.org Update on the AKC Health Foundation Epilepsy Initiative - https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/dog-breeding/update-akc-canine-health-foundation-epilepsy-initiative/ What’s Wrong With Gibson? Learning About K-9 Epilepsy Book for Children – www.ArcticHousePublishing.com Dorothy Wills-Raftery Dorothy Wills-Raftery is an award-winning photojournalist and author of EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy; the FiveSibes™ Tales children’s books: What’s Wrong With Gibson? Learning About K-9 Epilepsy and Getting Healthy With Harley: Learning About Health & Fitness; and Buddy, the Christmas Husky~Based On A True Holiday Miracle books (ArcticHouse Publishing), as well as the FiveSibes.com, an online encyclopedia for the Siberian Husky breed and Canine Epilepsy information, as well as her international award-winning FiveSibes blog, based on the lives of her five Siberian Huskies. Her work has also appeared in American Pet Magazine, Ruff Drafts, The Sled Dogger, and Hudson Valley Paw Print Magazine. Dorothy is the writer and host of "The Sibe Vibe” Dog Works Radio show. Dorothy is a 9-time Dog Writers of America Association “Excellence” nominee, winning the prestigious Maxwell Medallion in 2017 and 2016 for her writing, photography, and design. Her book EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy received the 2018 Independent Press Award for “Excellence” in the Reference Book category and 2017 NYC Big Book Award for “Excellence” in the Animal/Pet book category. Dorothy was also named “Best Author” in 2015 & 2016 by Hudson Valley Magazine and all four books named “Best in Print” by American Pet Magazine, An official International Purple Day® for Epilepsy Ambassador since 2012 and a volunteer case manager for The Wally Foundation-Canine Epilepsy, Dorothy is the creator of the FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Awareness campaign and partnered with The Anita Kaufmann Foundation for #Paws4Purple Project, both inspired by her own epileptic Husky, Gibson. In addition to her Siberian Huskies, Dorothy shares her home­ with her husband, daughter, son-in-law, and grandson. You can follow Dorothy and her FiveSibes on Facebook at FiveSibes: Siberian Husky K9 News & Reviews, on Google + , Twitter, and Instagram(@FiveSibesMom). :|zpendofcontent|:

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November 1, 2018

How to Get Your Dog to Just STOP...

How to Get Your Dog to "Just STOP..." A call I get regularly starts with, “I just want him to stop…” and then begins a list of behaviors. When I ask, for each behavior, what the family has tried to remedy the situation, they tell me they have tried “everything.” When I ask them to share what specifically they tried it boils down to they are trying to stop or punish a behavior and generally they tried 10 things a few times instead of sticking with an answer a bit longer term to see if it works. I am assuming there are some in our audience here who have the same issues, so I am going to give you a look behind the curtain to what dog trainers and behavior pros do. Ready?? Let’s say you and I are having a heated conversation. In the process, I turn away my head, then I roll my eyes, then warn you by saying, “I am going to punch you in the nose,” then I punch you in the nose. You have really, great info, right?!?!? (I don’t punch people in the nose except in this example.) So, now know that all those things happen before I punch you in the nose, you have information that can stop my behavior.   The behavior you want to stop is the punch in the nose. So what behavior(s) happen prior to the nose punch? Well, a verbal warning and two stress signals happened prior to the verbal warning. Changing what the punched does at the presentation of any of those signals would likely stop them from being punched. So, if when I said, “I am going to punch you,” you chose to stop and ask how you could help or, even better, expressed gratitude that I was warning you that changes everything too. If you changed what you were doing earlier in the process, then you are even further from even getting a big warning OR a nose punch…. Because you paid attention to the other in the conversation and monitored for stress.   Let’s try some dog examples: A puppy is playing fetch. The handler throws the toy, the puppy goes and gets it, jumps around, shakes it vigorously, then drops the toy, and when the handler picks up the toy the puppy and throws the toy and the game begins again. After several repetitions, when the handler picks up the toy, the puppy redirects to the handler’s slipper and won’t let go. Examples of how we might work with the puppy are: 1) End the game prior to the repetition that the behavior shift happens. So, let’s say he redirects on repetition 4, I may say end the game with a toss of the toy for repetition three then walk away before the pup gets back… that way arousal gets managed and the pup doesn’t escalate. Over time, try adding in one repetition at a time and build on success. 2) Play with two toys. The moment your pup starts shaking the toy or jumping around draw attention to the toy you have. Immediately after the puppy drops the toy he has, throw the one you have. 3) Teach the puppy to release the toy then lie down, perhaps on a mat that is a small distance away. This allows the handler to stay out of the redirected mouth zone. This option requires a bit more training skill. 4) Teach the puppy to “drop” separately and build up to getting him to release no matter what with just the word drop. **If anyone wants instruction on this, let me know at tina@sithappens.us and I will send you a video from a great trainer in England who teaches you the whole process. It’s fantastic! Here’s another example: Customer is trying to get the dog from the house to the car to go to the vet. Handler picks up the leash and the dog races around barking and jumping. Handler wrestles the leash onto the dog’s collar. Dog pulls to the door and then all the way to the car to go for a ride. Dog is barking at everything along the way in the car. A lot happens in this scenario. There are a lot of behaviors that lead up to the pulling and barking. For this scenario, my recommendation would be to start with building the behavior you want. Dogs are all about learning sequences, that is, they pick up, notice and attach meaning to patterns in our behavior. So, I would recommend picking up the leash and if the dog dances around, put the leash down. Repeat until when the leash is lifted the dog remains relaxed. Then add attaching the leash to the dog. I wait for the dog to relax and offer sitting or lying down before I try to attach the leash. If the dog starts to get up, I stop and go sit down and wait until the dog settles again and repeat doing so until the dog stays relaxed while I attach the leash. Then I let the dog walk around dragging the leash. When the dog relaxes, I take the leash off and we start over… again, and again and again, until it’s not big deal. Now comes the more frustrating part… because the closer we get to the actual CAR RIDE OF AWESOMENESS the more your dog’s brain is likely to turn to blue cheese.  Once we can get the leash on and off with brains still in the skull, then we start moving with the dog on the leash and even waiting at the door, jiggling the doorknob, opening and closing the door, walking to and fro through the door, then walking on a loose leash to the car, get in, get out again, etc. on and on until we are able to over and over again do the entire routine with a dog who’s brain is collected. Happy is awesome. Jacked up over-aroused is not. Now all of this will get an “aw, man, that’ll never work” and it’s because we want it fixed yesterday. Similarly, I want to eat salad one week and suddenly be the size 6 I long for… but alas, Rome was not built in a day. Working 2-3 short (10 min sessions) make HUGE progress in no time… and if you add treats to help focus the dog, it goes even faster. Often, I have a dog doing the entire routine in less than a day working a few minutes at a time. When we intervene early we can accomplish big learning and big change in very short amounts of time. Now… if only that was true for dieting. Tina M. Spring Tina M. Spring is the owner of Sit Happens Dog Training & Behavior, LLC in Athens, GA. She is the creator of the Hounds for the Holidays program to help prepare dogs for the stress of the holiday season and prevent dog bites. She is also the author of 90 Days to the Perfect Puppy which is available as an online course. :|zpendofcontent|:

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October 29, 2018

How to Make Life Easier for Your Arthritic Dog

How to Make Life Easier for Your Arthritic Dog Canine arthritis is a common joint condition that typically manifests in senior dogs. As the doting pet parent of a 13-year-old Rottweiler/Lab mix suffering with the daily limitations of severe arthritis, I’ve researched this topic inside and out in the hopes of helping my “eldest daughter.” Usually, over the span of months or years, owners observe a slow decline in their pet's physical movements. Truthfully, in our case, we’ve seen Maya go from limping once in while to being physically incapable of standing for more than a few minutes at a time, all in the span of 2-3 years. Due to their progressive mobility issues, canines may no longer be able to participate in their usual activities, which was indeed the case in our household. Suddenly, my beloved sidekick and running partner wasn’t as playful as she once was, choosing longer naps instead of hikes in the woods. While there is no cure for this degenerative disease, my goal as her guardian was to find ways to help reduce her joint inflammation and pain. Along the way, I found these 7 tried-and-true holistic ways to help manage my furry best’s pain so she can live a more comfortable life with us. Hopefully, these suggestions will help you with your own pet! Maintain Healthy Weight Lessen strain on painful joints by maintaining a healthy weight for your pet. No matter the amount, any weight in excess creates additional stress on joints that are already having a hard time functioning. Therefore, if your pup is overweight, speak to your vet about putting them on an age-appropriate weight-loss diet. Provide A Low-Impact Exercise Routine When we talk about being healthy, we can't leave out the importance of staying active. Indeed, these two components are quintessentially intertwined with regards to arthritic pain management. In fact, daily exercise is necessary, though in moderation according to your dog's physical limitations, to maintain muscle mass and keep joints flexible. Since there may be pain upon movement in the beginning, offer very short periods of exercise. Consider several short walks throughout the day as opposed to one epic trek - which would most likely injure your dog. Normally, vets recommend swimming as this exercise does not place a strain on achy joints. Carefully Plan Food And Water Placement Arthritic dogs feel pain upon certain movements. Unfortunately, these movements can be little, everyday actions like eating or drinking water. From trouble with their hips to neck stiffness, suddenly your pet's life seems all that more complicated. Keep the pain at bay by thoughtfully planning the location of food and water. Also, consider purchasing elevated bowls as they are easier to access. Install Assisted Living Devices Assisted living devices such as ramps are available for dogs. Once upon a time, your dog probably never thought twice to jump up onto the sofa or into the car. But now that they have arthritis, they could sure use a little help. While slings can support a canine with hip pain to walk with assistance, doggy steps or ramps provide an easier way to access areas. Use Padded Surfaces When Possible Whenever possible, use padded surfaces throughout the home to provide cushioning and support. With arthritis, walking is painful, causing your pet to become less confident with the simple act. On smooth surfaces like tile or hardwood, they may avoid walking altogether to eliminate the chance of slipping. To help them with balance and coordination, think about installing rugs, runners, or carpeting. These options also offer a softer place to land when Fido loses his footing. Select An Orthopedic Bed No doubt, your pet's achy joints are in desperate need of a warm, cozy bed to help reduce pain and stiffness as well as increase comfort. Orthopedic dog beds provide exceptional support with extra padding - two things that dogs in pain can really use. Additionally, as arthritic joints prefer warmth, you may want to think about slipping in a nice hot pack for a perfectly pleased pup. If you don’t believe dogs can smile, you should see the grin on Maya’s face when I place a microwavable Magic Sack on her hind legs! Call On Holistic Therapy Gentle, hands-on therapeutic techniques like massage and physical therapy have been shown to both significantly decrease joint pain and improve overall mobility. While you may be able to offer a soothing massage to your canine at home, you might want to consider the help of professionals for holistic therapies such as physiotherapy, acupuncture, or osteopathy. Although incurable at this time, arthritis symptoms can be controlled and alleviated. I urge you to speak to your veterinarian about developing a pain management plan. Doing so changed Maya’s life, and I say this without any ounce of exaggeration. By working together in conjunction with manual therapists, you can ensure your precious pet has less pain and stiffness, giving them a happier, more satisfying life. Lindsay Pereira  Lindsay Pereira is a pet-lov’in Montréal-based writer who’s a “mommy” to Maya, a sweet-tempered senior Labrador/Rottweiler and Muffy, a grumpy guinea pig with a serious attitude problem. She writes about pets at Animallama.com. Website: https://www.animallama.com/ :|zpendofcontent|:

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October 23, 2018

Why It's OK When Dog Training Goes Wrong

Why It's OK When Dog Training Goes Wrong It can be really frustrating when things go wrong during training. You’ve got yourself all excited to teach your dog a new skill, you can’t wait to give it a go but it’s just not working out. Your dog just doesn’t seem to be getting it or doesn’t seem want to play along. You may find yourself getting cross and thinking that your dog is just being stubborn. You may even feel like you’ve failed or that your dog has let you down. Yet every failure during dog training is an invaluable learning experience. If something isn’t working out, I know the dog I’m working with is telling me something isn’t right. Often working out what has gone wrong is more useful than several successful training sessions. Sometimes the answer is relatively simple. For example, if a dog is thirsty, needs to go to the toilet or is too hot you are unlikely to get much focus from your dog. However, at other times the answer is a little more complicated. First things first. If your dog is comfortable and ready to work check that your rewards match the effort you are asking for from your dog. If you are teaching something completely new and/or of higher difficulty for your dog then your rewards need to reflect this in order to keep your dog motivated. A bit of boring kibble just isn’t going to cut it! Rewards are in effect payment for work well done. The harder the work, the better your reward needs to be. Secondly, are you asking too much too soon? If your dog is struggling often the easiest way to solve the problem is to break the training down into smaller steps. So if your dog just won’t do a down? Reward them for any bending of the back or lowering of the body then try to gradually decrease the distance to the ground bit by bit. Want to teach your dog to stay but they keep trying to follow you? Then practice building up duration on the spot before you start to move away. Setting your dog up so they can succeed is the key to any good training session. It’s better to be successful at lots of small improvements than ask for too much and have it all fall apart. Another thing that is often misunderstood in training is what can be referred to as fidgeting about. This is when your dog suddenly decides they must scratch their ear, have a little sniff of the ground or simply wander off. It may appear as though the dog has just lost interest but these are key signs of emotional conflict. When a dog is experiencing conflicting emotions they will start fidgeting. Most often the dog is excited to work but has also become stressed by something. This could be something as simple as your dog picking up on your own tension which is making them feel under pressure. Alternatively, what you are asking for may be too difficult for the dog and they are getting confused as to what they are being asked to do. Often when training goes wrong is when we ask our dogs to do something we have already trained them to do but in a different environment. To us, it seems obvious that sit means sit wherever you are but to your dog, the whole picture appears very different. There are lots of different sounds and smells, everything looks different, you may be wearing different clothes and be carrying various items, there may be other dogs and people too. To your dog, the situation is so completely different that they become confused. Dogs just aren’t as good as humans at generalising; they can’t pick out the one common thread in the situation (i.e. the word sit). This means that you may need to go back some stages in your training whenever you are in a new environment.  One of the most common reasons for a training session to fail is by increasing the difficulty too quickly particularly in terms of distractions. A common example of this is when teaching a recall outdoors. Many owners struggle with recalling their dog out in the park. Usually, because the recall is attempted when there are too many distractions instead of being practiced at quieter times first. It’s just too big of a step up in difficulty to go from recall at home to a recall from other people and dogs especially if you don't have an exciting reward to offer on your dog's return. A special toy that only comes out for recalls is a great way to keep up your dog’s enthusiasm to come back to you when there are lots of doggy playmates around. When other dogs and people are too close during a training session your dog’s level of distraction will quickly tell you so. For dogs that react towards other dogs and or people by lunging and barking, your dog is telling you that you need more space. You can’t learn when you are stressed out or over excited and neither can your dog. So, if your dog has no focus take this as useful indicator that you need some more distance. If you find your dog tends to bark, bite the lead and jump about whilst you are trying to train, this is an indication that your dog is getting frustrated. Training sessions that are short and sweet are preferable to a training session that goes on too long. A couple of minutes followed by a quick break is generally more effective than a lengthy session. If your dog is barking, then you need to reward faster and build up the duration between rewards slowly. Some dogs just get so excited for that tasty treat they struggle to contain themselves. You could also work on some self-control exercises such as a ‘stay’ and ‘leave it.’ If your dog is lead biting and jumping about, you may also need to make the training a little easier as you could be asking for something your dog doesn’t understand or is finding too difficult to perform. In summary, a training session that doesn’t go as planned can tell you a lot about your dog. Your dog may be stressed, frustrated or distracted. You may be asking for something that is too hard or where there are too many distractions. Your dog could be tired, need a break or simply not motivated by the reward that’s on offer. It’s important that as owners, we have realistic expectations of our dogs and don’t expect too much too soon. Dogs are sensitive to human emotions and getting frustrated or angry with your dog during training will only harm their progress and the owner-human bond. So instead of being disappointed when your training doesn’t go as planned, take it as an opportunity to learn something new about your dog. You’ll be amazed at what a difference a few small changes to your training can make. Tamsin Peachey Tamsin is a qualified animal behaviourist having obtained an MSc in Clinical Animal Behaviour from Lincoln University in 2013. In 2017 Tamsin started running Puppy School classes in Solihull, having received tutor training from renowned author, dog trainer and canine behaviourist Gwen Bailey. Prior to running Puppy School Solihull Tamsin spent over two years working at Dog’s Trust gaining valuable experience in caring for and training a wide variety of rescue dogs. In 2014 Tamsin and her husband adopted their own rescue dog, Milo, with whom Tamsin has worked successfully to reduce his reactivity towards other dogs. In addition to dog training, Tamsin enjoys writing articles and resources on the topic of dog behaviour for both professionals and dog owners. :|zpendofcontent|:

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October 11, 2018

Life Lessons for a Happier Life With Your Dog

Life Lessons for a Happier Life With Your Dog I hear about situations regularly, where a family gets a dog, sometimes a puppy, and they let it grow up, but the dog doesn’t really get taught much past house training. Often these dogs don’t even know their names. It happens honestly. These are simply easy dogs… dogs that are fun and easy to live with and enjoy. And it happens far more often than you would think. The problems arise when the situation changes. The owner(s) start a family, or another animal joins the household. Suddenly, the dog who was easy to live with and “not a problem” doesn’t really have the tools necessary to navigate the new requirements of life and everyone is frustrated. Sadly, this often results in dogs being turned in to rescue or shelters. What are some of the things your dog needs to know (at least in this trainer’s opinion) to make life easier for you and your four-footed friend? The Name Game Your dog’s name should be mean “look at me.” That’s it. Not come…. Just look in my direction. So how do you teach it? Say your dog’s name and when he checks in (eye contact) reward with a piece of your dog’s food. Repeat until when you say your dog’s name he checks in with you. You would be STUNNED how many dogs respond to “flowerpot” no differently than they do their name. If this is your dog, get working on it. Eye Contact! Another easy one. Sit or stand with some of your dog’s regular food. Wait for your dog to check in and offer eye contact. Mark the behavior with a clicker or a “yay!” and reward your dog. DO NOT ASK with a “watch me”. This should be a default behavior you don’t have to ask your dog to give you. Sit! Grab some of your dog’s regular food. When he offers a sit, say, “Yay!” and reward your dog. Repeat ten times. Then just before your dog offers the sit, say “Sit” and when your dog does it, say, “Yay!” and reward your dog. Leash Walking Start inside the house with a leash attached to your dog’s collar and LET YOUR DOG DRAG IT AROUND. Work on the eye contact exercise above. When your dog is rock solid on staying connected with you, begin to add movement. Can your dog do it next to you? What about as you walk a step or two? Slowly work up to your dog being able to stay focused on you even if you are moving. When your dog is successful at that stage, drape the leash over your arm but DO NOT HOLD ONTO IT. Continue working with your dog inside until you can walk around with your dog staying focused on you with no tension on the leash. Add some distraction like toys or noise in the house. When your dog is a Rockstar at anything you throw at him inside, build the whole thing again outside, just use a long line attached to your dog and YOU to keep your dog safe. Coming When Called! Start with the eye contact exercise. When your dog is good at it, start tossing a reward away from the dog and say your dog’s name and “Come!” when your dog looks at you, lower a treat in your hand at NOSE level for your dog. When he comes in for it, touch his collar, praise gratuitously and toss another treat away to get the dog to move away. Repeat thousands of times. Then start working outside with your dog on leash. When he gets distracted by something, pause, wait for him to check in and then call and reward your dog. Some of the magic is in letting your dog be curious about things that are safe and waiting for him to return to you. How to Be Away From You Whether in a crate or some other separation including being held by someone else on a leash. (Adapted from “I’ll Be Back™ by Suzanne Clothier). Say, “I’ll be back” and take one step away from your dog, count to three, and return. Repeat many times until your dog is bored when you do it. Slowly increase time until you can count to 30 or 60 and return and your dog remains relaxed and bored. Next step add distance. For this piece, we decrease duration and add distance. Say “I’ll be back” take two steps away from your dog and return. Repeat until your dog is unconcerned at your coming and going. Then go three steps away… build up to being able to be away from your dog and leave the room and return. Slowly increase time, distance and distraction, always keeping your dog unconcerned and relaxed at your comings and goings… and don’t forget to let your dog know when you are leaving him or her, whether in the crate or on a leash or just to step out of the car to get fuel. Wait! This is one of those lifesaver behaviors. Teaching a dog to wait and not rush through doorways, out of cars, out of crates etc. I start this on leash for safety, and oddly on an interior door (so that if we make a mistake we make it in a low risk area). I wait for the dog to sit or lie down near the door (on leash) I start by wiggling the doorknob and “yay!” and reward the dog for holding position. If your dog gets up, I just say “ut oh” and wait for the dog to get back into position. I reward being in the position then start again creating maybe a smaller approximation (maybe just reaching toward the doorknob for example). Slowly I work up to the dog being able to stay relaxed and still while I open the door, walk through myself and then call the dog through. Then we work from the other direction. I reward the dog for getting it right, waiting for a release cue to go through the door. I eventually work up to me running through the door, tossing toys, etc. and the dog staying relaxed and waiting. Once your dog is a Rockstar with an interior door then I add different doors/situations, always focusing on safety. I start on an exterior door heading into the garage with the door closed) or into a fenced yard… then eventually through doors to outside that are less safe but again with a leash and keeping your dog safe. When the dog can handle you running in and out of the door even with distraction then I start on the wait cue in the car. So now that I have given you my two cents, what are yours? What are some things you wish your dog knew that he or she doesn’t know? Email me at tina@sithappens.us with a tag of “Life Lessons” and maybe I will include your behavior in a future blog post. Tina M. Spring Tina M. Spring is the owner of Sit Happens Dog Training & Behavior, LLC in Athens, GA. She is the creator of the Hounds for the Holidays program to help prepare dogs for the stress of the holiday season and prevent dog bites. She is also the author of 90 Days to the Perfect Puppy which is available as an online course. :|zpendofcontent|:

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